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1
Cook onions in a large pot of boiling water until tender but not falling apart, 25 to 30 minutes.
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2
While onions are cooking, remove leaves from lower 3 inches of each rosemary sprig and chop enough leaves to measure 1/2 teaspoon.
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3
Cut sprig ends at an angle to form a point so they can act as skewers.
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4
Remove onions from pot with a slotted spoon and, when cool enough to handle, cut off top inch of each with a sharp knife and finely chop tops.
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5
Trim root end of each onion slightly, if necessary for onions to stand up without rolling.
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6
Scoop out about a heaping tablespoon from center of each onion (keeping outside intact) and finely chop, adding to rest of chopped onion.
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7
Transfer hollowed onions to an oiled 8-inch square baking dish.
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8
Preheat oven to 400F.
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9
Cook chopped onion, garlic, and chopped rosemary in oil in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes.
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10
Stir in cream and remove from heat.
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11
Stir in parmesan, sea salt, and pepper to taste.
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12
Fill whole onions with some of chopped onion mixture and spoon remainder around whole onions.
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13
Wrap a slice of pancetta around middle of each onion and secure with a rosemary sprig or wooden toothpick.
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14
Bake onions, uncovered, in middle of oven, until very tender, 40 to 50 minutes depending on size of onions.