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1
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 450 degrees.
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2
Trim any wilted leaves and brown bits off the cauliflower, but leave healthy leaves.
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3
Put the cauliflower on its side on a cutting board.
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4
As if coring a tomato, core the base of the cauliflower: insert a small sharp knife about 1 inch into the base of the stem, make a circular cut to loosen the cone-shaped core, then pry it out and discard.
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5
In a deep, heavy ovenproof pot (with a lid), large enough to hold the whole cauliflower, heat the oil over medium-high heat.
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6
Add the cauliflower cored side up; it should sizzle.
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7
Brown the exterior, turning it occasionally with tongs for even browning.
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8
This should take about 5 minutes; reduce the heat as needed to prevent scorching.
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9
Carefully turn over and brown the other side lightly, about 2 minutes.
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10
Remove the cauliflower to a plate and add garlic, anchovies and rosemary to the pot.
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11
Stir until garlic is golden, about 30 seconds.
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12
Add tomatoes, white wine, chiles and salt.
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13
Stir well and bring to a simmer.
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14
Return cauliflower to pot, cored side down.
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15
Baste with the tomato liquid and pile some of the solids on top.
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16
Simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes to thicken the tomatoes.
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17
Cover the pot, place in the oven and roast until tender, 30 to 45 minutes; a knife will go into the thick stems with almost no resistance.
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18
Check on the tomato sauce every 10 minutes or so; it should be punchy and intense but not too thick, so add a glug of wine if it seems to be getting too dry.
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19
Transfer the cauliflower head to a serving plate or shallow bowl and cut in half, quarters or thick slices.
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20
Spoon on all the tasty stuff left in the pot.
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21
Add a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of herbs.
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22
Serve immediately or at room temperature, passing salt and red pepper flakes at the table.