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Heat the oven to 275F or 250F on convection.
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Set six 6-ounce ramekins or twelve 2 1/2-inch square molds on a baking sheet and spray them with cooking spray, rotating the tray so you can spray all sides of the ramekins.
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Melt the chocolate in a glass bowl in 30-second spurts in the microwave, or melt in a double boiler.
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After each spurt, let the chocolate sit for a minute or so, then stir it with a heatproof rubber scraper.
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Let the chocolate cool to 115F.
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Meanwhile, combine the egg whites, vanilla seeds (rinse, dry, and save the pod for another use), and cream of tartar in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk.
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Turn it on to low, and beat the whites gently for 2 minutes, to start establishing a structure.
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The whites will look frothy but still a bit wet.
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Turn the speed up to medium and add 3 tablespoons of the sugar.
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Continue to beat at medium speed until the whites have body and are just shy of having soft peaks.
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Add 3 more tablespoons of the sugar and continue beating until the whites have formed firm peaks.
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Add the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and beat until the whites are glossy and smooth and almost stiff.
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Keep your eye on the whites, so you dont overbeat them.
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While you whip the whites, sift the flour and the 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar together onto a piece of waxed paper.
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Beat the yolks with a whisk in a medium bowl until they are satiny smooth, then whisk in the flour and sugar.
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Youre not trying to aerate here; just get the yolks smooth again.
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Scrape the chocolate into a large mixing bowl and check to make sure its at temperature.
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If it has cooled below 115F, heat up the melted butter, using that to play with the chocolate temperature.
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Whisk the chocolate and butter together.
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Right after you add the remaining tablespoon of sugar to the whites, whisk the egg yolks into the chocolate.
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Chances are, this will look a little grainy, and the butter may separate.
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It will come together with the whites.
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Scoop out a little less than one-quarter of the whites with a big rubber scraper and fold them into the chocolate to lighten it.
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Add the rest of the egg whites and fold in quickly and thoroughly.
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Transfer the batter to a pastry bag and pipe into the ramekins, filling them just more than halfway.
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Slide the sheet into the oven and bake for 12 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking.
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The cakes are done when they are doubled in size and feel just set when you touch them.
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Any air bubbles that have risen to the top will have burst.
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Let cool, still on the baking sheet, on a rack.
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The cakes will fall, and quickly.
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When the cakes have cooled, cover them all with plastic wrap and keep them at room temperature until youre ready to serve.
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Heat the oven to 350F or 325F on convection.
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Uncover the cakes and slip them into the oven for about 5 minutes, just until warmed through and rerisen slightly.
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The cakes should also take on a little bit of color.
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Invert the cakes onto dessert plates.
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Unwrap the carpaccio and push it partway out of the tube.
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Cut thin slices and set one slice next to each cake.
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Shower the cake with confectioners sugar and garnish with some micro shiso if you want.
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39
You can replace the carpaccio with a simple citrus salad.
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40
Segment a variety of oranges (see page 115), such as navels, clementines, tangelos, and Cara Cara, and collect the resulting juice in a cup.
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Warm a couple of tablespoons of honey and stir it into the juice.
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Pour over the segments and refrigerate until very cold.