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1
Put the onion chunks, garlic cloves, basil, parsley, and 1/4 cup of olive oil in the food-processor bowl, and chop to a chunky-textured pestata.
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2
Pour the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil into the soup pot, and set over medium-high heat.
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3
Scrape in the pestata, and cook, stirring often, as it sizzles and dries, about 5 minutes.
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4
Meanwhile, lift the rehydrated porcini from the soaking liquid (reserve the liquid) and chop into fine bits.
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5
When the pestata just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, drop the porcini, the chopped celery, carrots, tomato, and diced potatoes into the pot, and stir well.
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6
Cook over high heat, stirring, until the potatoes become crusty and start to stick to the bottom.
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7
Pour in the cold water and the porcini soaking liquid (except for the sediment in the container).
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8
Stir in the salt, and heat the water to a vigorous bubble.
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9
Drop in the cheese rind (if you have a piece or two), partially cover the pot, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady bubbling.
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10
Cook 45 minutes to an houruntil the vegetables begin to break downand add the chicory, spinach, and peas.
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11
Return to a bubbling boil, and cook 30 minutes or longer, until the broth is concentrated and flavorful and the total volume has reduced by about a quarter.
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12
(You can serve all or some of the soup now.
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13
Let the remainder cool, then refrigerate or freeze.)
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14
To serve: Ladle the simmering soup into warm bowls.
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15
Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of freshly grated cheese over each portion, and finish with a swirl of excellent olive oil.
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16
Pass more grated cheese at the table.
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17
The name pesto comes from the verb pestare, which means to pound or to crush.
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18
As Italian cooks have long known, there are infinite possibilities when fresh herbs, spices, vegetables, nuts, fruits, and cheeses are pounded in a mortaror, with todays kitchen technology, processed at high speedinto a smooth, savory sauce.
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So, as you read the recipe for classic pesto alla Genovese, let your imagination go; think of all of your favorite flavors and how you can make your own pesto.
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20
The cardinal rule for all pestos is to use the freshest herbs, the best extra-virgin olive oil, the perfect cheese.
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21
And, to experience the freshness and intensity of the herbs, dont alter their qualities by cooking them.
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22
So, when dressing pasta with an aromatic pesto, follow the basic procedures in the recipe for Trenette with Pesto Genova-Style (page 108).
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23
Quickly drain the pasta and toss it in a warm bowl or pan with the pesto (thinned with a bit of hot water from the pasta cooking pot if necessary) until all of the pasta is coated.
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24
Finish with a drizzle of oil and a sprinkle of grated cheese.
