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1
Preheat oven to 450F.
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2
Arrange veal bones in 1 layer in an oiled large roasting pan and roast in middle of oven, turning once or twice, until browned, 30 to 45 minutes.
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3
Leave oven on.
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4
Transfer bones with tongs to a tall narrow 7- to 8-quart stockpot and add 4 quarts water.
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5
Discard fat from roasting pan, then immediately add 1/2cup water to hot pan, stirring and scraping up brown bits, and add to stockpot.
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6
Bring liquid to a tremble (bare simmer; about 190F) and cook, skimming froth frequently during first hour, about 10 hours (use a flame tamer for lowest heat if necessary).
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7
While stock is cooking, wash leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well.
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8
Oil roasting pan again and spread leeks, carrots, onions, and celery in 1 layer.
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9
Roast in middle of oven, stirring once or twice, until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.
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10
Transfer vegetables to a bowl and immediately add remaining 1/2 cup water to hot pan, stirring and scraping up brown bits, then add to stockpot.
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11
Cool vegetables and chill, covered.
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12
Add roasted vegetables and remaining ingredients to stockpot for last 2 hours of cooking.
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13
Remove bones with tongs and discard.
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14
Pour stock in batches through a large fine-mesh sieve into a 4-quart pot, discarding solids.
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15
Cool stock, uncovered, and chill, covered, then scrape congealed fat from chilled stock.
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16
If you end up with more than 8 cups stock, simmer it, skimming froth, to reduce.
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17
If you have less, add water.
