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1
Arrange an oven rack to accommodate the covered saucepan, and heat the oven to 400.
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2
Trim the chops, leaving only a thin layer of fat.
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3
With a sharp, thin knife, slice horizontally into the outer edge of each chop, splitting the meaty portion in two almost all the way to the bone, forming a pocket for stuffing.
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4
With the mallet, pound and spread the meaty part, flattening it to 1/2-inch thickness.
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5
Lift the top flap of the meat you just sliced apart, hold it up, and pound the bottom flap of meat a few more times, spreading it thinner and wider than the upper flap.
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6
When all the chops are sliced and pounded, salt them on both sides, using a teaspoon in all.
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7
Toss together the shredded fontina and the grana (grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), and divide the cheeses into six equal portions.
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8
One at a time, lightly compress the cheese portions into oval patties, and slip them into the sliced chop pockets.
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9
Fold the larger bottom meat flap over the top flapenclosing the cheeseand thread a toothpick through both flaps to keep them together.
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10
(The chops can be prepared up to this point a day in advance, sealed in plastic wrap, and refrigerated.)
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11
Put 2 tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil in the big pan, and set over medium-high heat.
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12
Spread the flour on a plate, dredge each chop on both sides, shake off excess flour, and lay it in the pan.
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13
When all the chops are in the pan, drop the sage leaves in between them.
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14
Cook the chops for 5 minutes or more, turning them once or twice, until well browned on both sides.
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15
Clear a space in the pan bottom, drop in the tomato paste, and toast it in the hot spot for a minute.
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16
Pour the wine over the tomato paste, stir them together, and shake the pan to distribute the liquid.
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17
Bring it to a boil, and cook for 3 minutes or so, to reduce.
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18
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and whisk it into the pan liquid.
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19
Turn the chops over, pour in the chicken stock, sprinkle on the remaining salt, and bring to a boil.
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20
Cover the pan, and place in the oven.
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21
Roast for about 15 minutes, then remove the cover and roast another 10 minutes or so, until the chops are done and the sauce has thickened.
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22
Remove from the oven, and place the chops on a warm platter.
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23
(Drape a towel over the handle of the pan when it comes out of the oven to remind you it is very hot.)
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24
If the sauce is thin, put the pan over high heat and reduce until the sauce has the consistency you like.
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25
Serve right awaywhile the cheese is still oozingarranging all the chops on a warm platter and spooning the sauce over, family-style, or on warm dinner plates with mashed potatoes alongside and sauce drizzled over.
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26
(If you do have fresh white truffle, shave it on the top of each chop at this moment.)
