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1.
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Melt the butter in a heavy 7- to 8-quart stockpot over medium heat.
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Add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the vegetables become very soft without browning, about 8 minutes.
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2.
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Place the fish head on the vegetables and stack the fish frames evenly on top.
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Pour in the wine, cover the pot tightly, and let the bones sweat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they have turned completely white.
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3.
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Add enough very hot or boiling water to just barely cover the bones.
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Give the mixture a gentle stir and allow the brew to come to a simmer.
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Simmer for 10 minutes, uncovered, carefully skimming off any white foam that comes to the surface, trying not to take any herbs, spices, or vegetables with it.
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(Using a ladle and a circular motion, push the foam from the center to the outside of the pot, where it is easy to remove.)
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4.
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Remove the pot from the stove, stir the stock again, and allow it to steep for 10 minutes.
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Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and season lightly with salt.
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If you are not going to be using the stock within the hour, chill it as quickly as possible.
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Cover the stock after it is thoroughly chilled (it will have a light jellied consistency) and keep refrigerated for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.
