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To Make the Steaks:
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Heat the oven: Position a rack near the center of the oven and heat to 375 degrees (350 degrees convection).
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Let the steaks sit at room temperature while the oven heats.
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Heat the skillet: Place a large cast-iron or black metal skillet (a 12-inch skillet will hold two steaks nicely) over medium heat and heat the skillet while you season the steaks.
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Season the steaks: Sprinkle each steak aggressively all over with salt and pepper, turning the steak and pressing all sides down onto the seasonings that fall onto the work surface.
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You want the entire surface to be seasoned.
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If you prefer to measure, use 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 to 1 teaspoon pepper per steak.
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Sear the steaks: Once the pan is hot, increase the heat to high and add the oil to the pan, tilting to coat.
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When the oil begins to shimmer, after about 30 seconds, place the steaks side by side in the skillet.
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Let them sear without disturbing; nudging the steaks will interfere with the browning.
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After 2 minutes, lift the edge of one of the steaks to check whether its well seared.
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If so, immediately flip both steaks and smear the tops with butter, dividing it equally.
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(If the steak isnt browned yet, continue to sear for another 45 seconds and check again.)
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Roast: Immediately transfer the skillet to the oven.
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After 6 minutes, start checking for doneness either by touching the meat (the steak firms up as it cooks) or by taking the internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer.
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Baste the steaks with pan juices each time you open the oven, and check again every 2 minutes until the steaks are done to your liking.
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Depending on what degree of doneness youre after and how often you open the oven to check on them, expect them to roast for 6 to 10 minutes, or until they reach 115 to 120 degrees internal temperature for rare, 120 to 125 degrees for medium-rare, and 125 to 130 degrees for medium.
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Rest and Serve: Immediately transfer the steaks to a cutting board-preferably one with a trough-to rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
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Serve on individual plates if serving 1 per person, or cut in half to share.
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Pour the pan drippings and any juices from the cutting board over the top of the steaks and serve.
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To Make the Steak Sauce:
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Soak the citrus zest and raisins: Tear the orange and grapefruit zests into a few pieces each.
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Combine the zest, raisins, gin or water, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl.
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Cover tightly and let sit for 4 to 6 hours.
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Soak the Tamarind Pulp: If using, put the tamarind ball in a small bowl, add 1/4 cup warm water, and use your fingers to help dissolve some of it.
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Set aside to soften for 5 minutes.
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Work the tamarind with your fingers to dissolve more of the pulp.
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Let sit for another 5 minutes, then work again with your fingers to dissolve more pulp.
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Strain through a fine sieve into a small bowl, pressing on the solids.
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Set the tamarind juice aside and discard the solids.
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Saute the Aromatics: Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat.
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Add the onions, season with a pinch of salt, and saute until translucent, about 5 minutes.
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Increase the heat to medium-high, add the garlic, cloves, allspice, and cinnamon, and saute until fragrant, another minute or so.
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Stir in the tomato paste and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, until the bottom of the pan begins to darken, about 1 minute.
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Add the soaked raisins and zest, stir, and simmer briefly until almost evaporated, about 15 seconds.
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Add the Liquid and Simmer: Add the grapefruit juice, orange juice, vinegar, and reserved tamarind juice (or tamarind or tart cherry juice concentrate, if using).
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Stir to combine, and adjust the heat so the sauce simmers steadily but doesnt boil violently.
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Continue simmering until the sauce is shiny and reduced by about one third, 15 to 20 minutes.
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Strain and Cool: Pour the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer, pushing firmly on the solids to extract as much liquid as you can.
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Cool to room temperature and taste for salt.
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Transfer to a clean jar, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
