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1
Prepare the brine: Combine the salt, brown sugar, water, and vodka, if using, in a large shallow container such as a roasting pan. Add the whole gutted skin on whitefish, then cover and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. (If desired, keep the fish submerged in the brine by topping it with resealable bags of ice.).
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2
Remove the fish from the brine and rinse thoroughly, inside and out, under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels. (Discard the brine.).
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3
When ready to cook, start your smoker and establish the lowest heat you can. (about 180 degrees.) Place the fish on the grill grate. Tuck 2 or 3 balls of foil in the cavity so the interior gets more exposure to the smoke. Smoke the fish for 3 to 4 hours, or until it flakes easily when pressed with a fork and has an internal temperature of 150 degrees F.
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4
Let cool, then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate.
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5
Make the salad: Remove the skin and break the fish into flakes; remove any pin bones you find. (There are a lot of them!) Add the celery, red onion, lemon juice, dill, mayonnaise, sour cream, and pepper. Stir gently with a rubber spatula to combine.
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6
To serve, mound the salad into leaves of lettuce or radicchio, if desired, and accompany with bagels or bagel chips, crackers, or cocktail breads. Garnish with sprigs of fresh dill.