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1
Prepare the tomatoes for sauce, following one of the methods on page 261.
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2
Trim and peel the eggplants (or, if the skin is tender, peel in stripes; see box, page 254).
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3
Cut them lengthwise in 3/4-inch-wide slices, stack the slices, and cut them into 3/4-inch-wide strips, then chop into 3/4-inch chunks.
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4
Following the procedures for Initial Sauteing in the main recipe, stir together the oil, the onions, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in the saucepan.
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5
Cook for 5 or 6 minutes, add the garlic and let it caramelize in a hot spot, then stir in a couple tablespoons of water and cook the onions and garlic together for a minute or two.
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6
Now pour the eggplant pieces into the pan, sprinkle on 1 teaspoon salt, and turn to coat the pieces with the oil and sauteed onion and garlic.
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7
Cook over medium-low heat, uncovered, stirring and turning the eggplant frequently.
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8
If the pan gets dry and the pieces start to brown, stir in several spoons of water; lower the heat if needed.
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9
Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the eggplant chunks are very soft, almost mushy, but still retain their shape.
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10
Pour in the prepared tomatoes and juices, rinsing the tomato bowl with 2 or 3 cups water and pouring it into the pan (the eggplant needs the additional liquid).
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11
Sprinkle on the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and the peperoncino, and stir to blend everything together.
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12
Submerge the basil branches in the sauce, cover the pan, and raise the heat to medium.
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13
When the sauce reaches the boil, lower the heat to keep an active simmer and cook, covered, for 40 minutes or so.
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14
The eggplant should now be broken down and melting into the tomatoes.
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15
Uncover the pan and let the sauce bubble gently and gradually reduce.
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16
Stir carefully as it thickens, to make sure the eggplant doesnt stick to the pan bottom; lower the heat if necessary.
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17
Cook, uncovered, for a total of 45 minutes to an hour, until the sauce has the consistency you like, then turn off the heat.
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18
Pull out the basil before using, and store sauce as in the main recipe.
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19
A simple dish that I loved as a child (and still adore) is beaten eggs cooked in a small pan of bubbling melanzana affogata (or Slow-Cooked Summer Tomato and Eggplant Sauce, above).
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20
Heres how to make enough for 4 servings:
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21
Heat 3 cups of sauce in a skillet until simmering.
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22
Crack 4 fresh eggs in a bowl and beat them with a couple pinches of salt.
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23
Pour the eggs on top of the hot sauce, raise the heat to high, and scramble up the eggs and sauce together with a fork for 1 minute.
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24
Serve hot for a great breakfast, lunch, or brunchor supper.
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25
Instead of scrambling the eggs, try poaching them: make an indentation in the simmering sauce, crack an egg into it; do the same for each serving.
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26
Cover the skillet, and cook slowly (about 4 minutes) until the egg is done to your liking.
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27
With a spatula, lift out a portion of sauce with an egg nestled on top, and serve.
