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1
With a vegetable peeler, shave off the skin from the bottom 3 inches or so of each stalk, so they cook evenly.
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2
(Save the stubs and peelings for soup base or asparagus-stub sauce, page 137.)
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3
Snap off the hard stubs at the bottom of the asparagus stalkstheyll break naturally at the right point.
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4
Trim the root end of each scallion and the wilted ends of the green leaves.
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5
Peel off the loose layers at the white end too, so the scallions are all tight, trim, and about 6 inches long.
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6
In a wide deep skillet, bring 1 quart of water (or enough to cover the vegetables) to a boil, and add the asparagus and scallions.
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7
Adjust the heat to maintain a bubbling boil, and poach the asparagus and scallions, uncovered, for about 6 minutes or more, until they are tender but not falling apart, and cooked through but not mushy.
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8
To check doneness, pick up an asparagus spear in the middle with tongs; it should be a little droopy but not collapsing.
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9
As soon as they are done, lift out the vegetables with tongs and lay them in a colander (any fat asparagus spears may take a little longer, so leave them in a few minutes more).
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10
Hold the colander under cold running water to stop the cooking.
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11
Drain briefly, then spread on kitchen towels, pat dry, and sprinkle about 1/2 teaspoon salt over them.
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12
Slice the asparagus and the scallions into 1-inch lengths, and pile them loosely in a mixing bowl.
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13
Drizzle the oil and vinegar over them, then sprinkle on 1/2 teaspoon salt and several grinds of black pepper.
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Toss well, but dont break up the vegetables.
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15
Quarter the eggs into wedges, and slice each wedge into two or three pieces; salt lightly and scatter the eggs in the bowl, and fold in with the vegetables.
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Taste and adjust the seasoning.
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17
Chill the salad briefly, then arrange it on a serving platter or on salad plates.
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18
Heres my simple method for hard-cooked eggs with nice color and good texture: Put the eggs in a saucepan that doesnt crowd them together.
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19
Add water to cover the eggs by 2 to 3 inches.
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20
Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.
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Leave the eggs in the water until theyve cooled to room temperature.
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22
To peel, crack the shells a few minutes before you need the eggs by rolling them on a flat surface.
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23
Let them sit in cold water for several minutes before peeling.
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24
In the recipe on the facing page (and many others to come) I use fresh citrus zestthe outer peel of an orange or a lemonas a major flavoring agent.
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25
The trick, with either fruit, is to remove only the thin colored layer of rind, where the essential oils are contained, without any of the bitter white pith just underneath.
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A sharp vegetable peeler, a paring knife, a grater, or any of several kinds of zesters are good for this purpose.
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My favorite zester is one with several tiny cutting holes, which scrape off the zest in long thin threads, lending a lovely visual element to the dish, as well as vibrant taste.
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If you dont have this tool, shave off a wider strip of zest with a peeler or knife, then cut it lengthwise in thin julienne slivers.