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1
Place the sweetbreads in a container, cover them with cold water, and soak them in the refrigerator overnight.
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2
The next day, take them out and rinse them under cold running water to remove any remaining blood.
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3
Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.
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4
Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes.
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5
Lay the sweetbreads on top of the vegetables, pour in the wine, and cover with cold water by 23 inches.
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6
Add the bay leaf, a little salt, and the peppercorns and bring to a boil.
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7
Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 1012 minutes.
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8
Test the sweetbreads for doneness by removing one piece (with tongs or a slotted spoon) and placing it in an ice-water bath; it should be firm but neither hard (overcooked) nor too flabby (undercooked) when cool.
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9
(Chef Daniel used to say that they should have the feel of a firm, young breast, and of course he would say that looking directly at me, to see me blush!)
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10
If it is done, chill all the sweetbreads in the ice bath.
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11
Place the sweetbreads in a pan or on a large plate with another pan or plate on top of them, and 23 pounds of weight (cans of beans work well) evenly distributed on top.
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12
Refrigerate and press for at least 1 hour.
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13
This process will firm the sweetbreads and create a uniform thickness that helps them cook more evenly.
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14
With a paring knife, clean the sweetbreads of outer membranes, fat, and any tendons or rubbery bits.
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15
If they are plump enough (at least 1 inch thick), the best method is to slice them in half.
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16
This shows you any little pinkish parts that you want to remove, which you can do by grasping the end between the tip of your paring knife and your thumb and gently tugging to extract them without breaking the sweetbread apart.
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17
Do not overdo the cleaning, but do try to get these chewy bits out.
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18
You can do this while the Sherry-Mustard Butter is cooking.
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19
Season the sweetbreads with salt and pepper.
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20
Dust with flour, shaking off the excess.
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21
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
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22
When the pan is hot, cook the sweetbreads until golden brown and crispy on both sides.
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23
Drain them briefly on paper towels and serve on a plate or platter with sauce ladled over the top.
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24
If you like, throw some sliced mushrooms into the pan and saute to a crispy brown.
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25
Season lightly, then spoon on top of the sweetbreads.
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26
Finish with chopped parsley or chives.
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27
Combine the wine, sherry, vinegar, and shallot in a small saucepan.
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28
Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 3 tablespoons, about 5 minutes.
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29
Whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is smooth and has a creamy consistency.
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30
Whisk in the mustards and season to taste with salt and pepper.
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31
Sweetbreads normally come in sets: the noix (nut, in French), which is the rounder, meatier part (although a little fatter), about the size and shape of the palm of your hand, and the gorge (throat), which is the longer, gnarlier part, requiring more work for less yield.
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32
Ask your butcher or meat department for heartbreads, which will be just the noix.
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33
Heartbreads cost a little more but are a lot easier to deal with.
