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1
Make the cheese: Line a colander with a double layer of damp cheesecloth; put in the sink.
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2
Bring the milk to a simmer in a wide nonreactive pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.
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3
Remove from the heat and stir in the yogurt, lemon juice and 2 teaspoons salt.
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4
Continue to stir gently until large curds form and separate from the whey, 1 to 2 minutes.
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5
Strain through the cheesecloth-lined colander, discarding the whey.
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6
Gather the ends of the cheesecloth and twist to squeeze out any excess whey (run the sides of the bundle under cool water if it's too hot to handle).
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7
Tie the ends of the cheesecloth around a wooden spoon handle and lay the spoon over the colander, letting the bundle dangle; let drain, 10 minutes.
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8
Untie the bundle and twist the cheesecloth again, squeezing out any more whey.
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9
Lay the bundle on its side on a plate.
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10
Top with another plate and weigh it down with a large can.
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11
Refrigerate until a firm cake forms, about 1 hour; unwrap and refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use, or up to 2 days.
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12
Fry the cheese: Cut the cheese into 3/4-inch cubes.
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13
Toss in the flour until well coated, shaking off any excess.
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14
Heat about 1/2 inch vegetable oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
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15
Carefully add the cheese and fry, turning occasionally, until golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes.
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16
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
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17
Season lightly with salt and set aside.
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18
Make the spinach: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil.
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19
Working in batches, cook the spinach until just tender, about 30 seconds.
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20
Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of salted ice water.
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21
Drain and squeeze dry, then chop and set aside.
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22
Pulse the ginger, garlic, jalapeno, coriander, cumin, turmeric and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a food processor until finely chopped.
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23
Whisk the yogurt, 1/4 cup water and 1 teaspoon salt in a small bowl.
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24
Heat 2 tablespoons butter and the vegetable oil in a wide pot over medium-high heat.
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25
Add the onion and cook, stirring, until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes.
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26
Add the ginger mixture and cook, stirring, until toasted, about 5 minutes (add a splash of water if the mixture is sticking).
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27
Reduce the heat to medium low; add 1/2 cup water and scrape up any browned bits, then add the cooked spinach and stir until heated through, about 4 minutes.
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28
Stir in the yogurt mixture and simmer gently until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
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29
Add the fried cheese and the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 1 minute.
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30
Season with salt.
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31
Photograph by Anna Williams
