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1
Preheat oven to 400u00b0F. Rinse beets and remove any blemishes. Set aside 1 small beet. Place a large piece of foil on a rimmed baking sheet. Place remaining beets, oil, garlic, 3 thyme sprigs, and 1/4 tsp. salt in the center of foil, then wrap into a package to close. Bake beets until knife-tender, 60-70 minutes. Let cool.
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2
Meanwhile, toast hazelnuts on another rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, 6-8 minutes.
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3
Cook vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, 1 thyme sprig, and 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved. Transfer to a shallow bowl. Peel and thinly slice reserved beet into matchsticks and add to pickling liquid; liquid should cover all matchsticks. Let pickle while beets roast.
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4
When beets are cooled, carefully peel off skins. Pulse hazelnuts and 1/2 tsp. thyme leaves in a food processor until finely chopped. Add roasted beets, goat cheese, 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper, and remaining 1/4 tsp. salt and pulse until smooth. Transfer to a serving bowl.
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5
Pulse 3 Tbsp. pickled beets in food processor until coarsely chopped (or chop by hand). Stir into beet mixture. Top with remaining pickled beets and black pepper. Serve with crudite and crackers alongside.
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6
Beets can be roasted and pickles can be made 2 days ahead; cover in separate containers and chill. Dip can be made one day ahead; chill in an airtight container.