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1
Pour the olive oil into the heavy pot and set over medium heat.
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2
Stir in the bacon pieces, and cook for several minutes to render the fat.
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3
When the bacon starts to crisp, stir in the leek (and fresh peas, if using).
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4
Cook, stirring frequently, until the leek is wilted and the bacon is caramelized, about 6 minutes.
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5
Meanwhile, heat 3 quarts water to a simmer.
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6
Pour into the pot with the leek and bacon, add the tablespoon salt, and stir well.
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7
Rapidly bring to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain active bubbling, and cook for an hour or longer, to build flavor in the soup base.
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8
Cook covered or uncovered, to reduce the soup rapidly or slowly, to a consistency you prefer (see headnote).
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9
Stir in the frozen peas, if using.
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10
Return the soup to a bubbling simmer, and cook for 20 minutes before adding the rice.
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11
(If fresh peas are already cooking in the pot, stir in the rice after the hour or so of cooking, when the volume has reduced.)
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12
Use 3/4 cup rice for a looser soup, or a full cup of rice for a denser one.
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13
Return the soup to the active simmer, taste, and stir in 1/2 teaspoon or more saltremember that more rice needs more seasoning.
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14
Cook the rice for 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the grains are cooked through but not mushy.
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15
Turn off the heat; stir in the parsley and grated cheese; season the soup with lots of freshly ground black pepper.
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16
Serve immediately, passing more cheese and olive oil at the table.