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1
Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
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2
Add the garlic, onion and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is dark brown, about 30 minutes.
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3
Meanwhile, make the broth: Put the bacon and chicken wings in a Dutch oven and add enough water to cover.
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4
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer 10 minutes.
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5
Drain and wipe the pot clean.
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6
Rinse the bacon and wings under cold water, then return to the pot; add 4 quarts water and the dried mushrooms.
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7
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium; add the garlic mixture and gently simmer 1 hour, 15 minutes.
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8
Strain the broth through a colander into a large bowl, pressing on the solids to extract as much of the liquid as possible.
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9
Skim any excess fat from the surface.
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10
Measure the broth, adding water if necessary to yield 2 quarts.
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11
(The broth can be made up to 4 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.)
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12
Just before serving, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and the scallions in a medium skillet over medium heat until the mixture starts sizzling.
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13
Add the sake, soy sauce, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, the sugar, peppercorns and 1/2 cup water.
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14
Simmer, reducing to 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes.
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15
Bring the broth and the scallion mixture to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat.
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16
Add the noodles and cook until softened, 1 to 3 minutes.
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17
Gently pull the noodles apart with tongs.
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18
Transfer the soup to bowls and top as desired.
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19
Toppings Bar
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20
Take your pick: These taste great in just about any combination.
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21
Shredded rotisserie chicken
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22
Sauteed mushrooms
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23
Nori strips (seaweed)
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24
Shredded kale
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25
Cubed firm tofu
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26
Snow peas
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27
Toasted sesame seeds
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28
Sliced radishes
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29
Sliced scallions
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30
Bean sprouts
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31
Kimchi
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32
Watercress
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33
Sliced jalapeno
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34
Pickled ginger
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35
Wasabi paste
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36
Fried egg
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37
Sesame oil
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38
Sriracha
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39
Roasted squash: Toss cubed butternut or kabocha squash (no need to peel) with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, sugar and red pepper flakes.
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40
Roast at 425 degrees F, 30 minutes.
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41
Sauteed shrimp: Stir-fry peeled deveined shrimp in hot olive oil with minced ginger, chopped scallions and a pinch each of sugar, salt and pepper.
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42
Roasted pork belly: Put 1 cup each sake and water, 1/2 cup each soy sauce and mirin, and 1/4 cup sugar in a Dutch oven.
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43
Add 2 pounds skinless pork belly, 1 quartered onion, 1/2 head garlic and 4 thin slices ginger.
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44
Cover with foil.
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45
Roast at 325 degrees F,3 hours; slice.
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46
Photograph by Charles Masters