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1
Cook onion in oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, 6 to 8 minutes.
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2
Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil.
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3
Discard any discolored or damaged tough outer leaves from cabbage, then core cabbage and carefully lower into boiling water using a slotted spoon.
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4
Boil cabbage, pulling off 6 large leaves (to be used as decorative wrappers and eaten if desired) with tongs as they soften and leaving them with remaining cabbage, 5 minutes.
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5
Transfer large leaves to a bowl of ice water to stop cooking.
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6
Transfer remaining cabbage to a colander to drain.
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7
Transfer large leaves to paper towels to drain, then pat dry.
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8
Lightly butter muffin cups, then put 2 parchment strips in a crisscross pattern in each cup.
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9
(You will have a 2-inch overhang.)
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10
Line each cup with a large cabbage leaf.
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11
Coarsely chop enough remaining cabbage to measure 3 cups, then add to onion along with garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, and water and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is tender and browned, about 10 minutes.
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12
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350F
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13
Peel potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes, then cover with cold salted water by 1 inch in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil.
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14
Cook potatoes until tender, about 15 minutes.
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15
Drain in a colander, then set potatoes in colander over saucepan to steam-dry, uncovered, 5 minutes.
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16
Mash potatoes in a large bowl, then stir in buttermilk, cheese, horseradish, 1/2 stick butter, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper until combined well.
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17
Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook bread crumbs, stirring frequently, until golden, 5 to 7 minutes.
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18
Fill each cabbage leaf with about 1/2 cup potato mixture, then divide cabbage mixture among leaves.
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19
Top with remaining potato mixture, then sprinkle evenly with bread crumbs.
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20
Fold edges of cabbage in toward filling (do not completely cover).
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21
Bake until heated through and edges of cabbage are well browned, 25 to 30 minutes.
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22
Transfer stuffed leaves to plates using parchment overhangs.
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23
Directions for Irish bacon:.
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24
Pat bacon dry and cook in 2 batches in oil (1 tablespoon per batch) in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, turning over once, until browned, about 4 minutes per batch (use caution; oil will splatter).
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25
Transfer with tongs to a paper-towel-lined platter and keep warm, loosely covered with foil.
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26
Cooks' note:.
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27
Stuffed cabbage leaves can be assembled, but not baked, 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.
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28
Bring to room temperature before baking.
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29
Serve with Irish bacon that has been fried in oil.
