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1
Warm the cognac and water in a small saucepan, add the cranberries and apricots, and set aside until plump, about 10 minutes.
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2
In a small food processor, pulse the fruit and any unabsorbed liquid with the almonds, shallot, butter, fennel seeds, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper, to taste, until the fruit and nuts are coarsely chopped.
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3
With a boning knife or other long, thin knife, make a cut 3 inches across in the center of one end of the roast.
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4
Gently push and work the blade in and straight through the roast to the other end.
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5
(If your knife isn't long enough, make a cut at either end and work your way to the center, making sure that the cuts meet.)
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6
Insert the narrow end of a wooden spoon into the opening to widen it a bit all the way through.
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7
Push the stuffing into the loin, working first from 1 end and then the other, filling to the center.
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8
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
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9
Pat the loin dry and season all over with salt and pepper.
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10
Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat.
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11
Add the roast, holding the bones up so that the bottom gets well browned, then turn the roast to brown the meaty side, about 6 minutes total.
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12
Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the pork meat side down for 30 minutes.
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13
Turn the roast over so it sits on the bones and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 155 degrees F, about 1 hour more.
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14
Transfer the roast to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let it rest for 10 minutes before carving.
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15
Whisk the creme fraiche or sour cream with the mustard in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper, to taste.
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16
Slice roast between the bones to make individual chops, arrange them on a platter, and serve, passing the mustard sauce.
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17
Know-How: Roasting meat on the bone keeps meat moist and improves its flavor.
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18
Pan-searing before roasting is the way to get a great burnished crust on lean meats that would otherwise dry out if left to brown solely in the oven.