Pizza: The Seasonal, Whole Wheat Version.

1. 1

   By hand: Mix all ingredients together just until combined. Cover the dough and let it rest for 20 minutes. Then knead it for about five minutes, or until it feels smooth and well-worked. Place the dough in an oiled mixing bowl and let it rise for four or five hours. (You can also let it rise briefly and then refrigerate it for as long as several days; when you take it out, give it about two hours to come to room temperature.)

2. 2

   By stand mixer: Follow the directions above, using a dough hook for the initial mixing. For the kneading, run the mixer on medium speed for a couple of minutes. It should feel smooth and stretch nicely.

3. 3

   Preheat the oven to 500 degrees, preferably with a baking stone. (If you don't have a stone, bake the pizza on a baking sheet.)

4. 4

   When your dough is ready, divide it into equal pieces. Stretch the dough on a lightly floured surface, gently tugging at the sides until it is almost the size of a baking sheet. If it resists, give it a brief respite, then resume. (If it really resists, let it dangle off the edge of the counter.) Place the dough on a piece of parchment paper

5. 5

   The toppings: this is where you take the reins. The guidelines: slice thinly, mix with oil or cheese, toss on pizza. For potatoes: slice very thinly, mix with oil and herbs, salt heavily. For spring onions: cut lengthwise, mix with oil and Parmesan. For zucchini: slice thinly, toss with cheddar. For plums: slice a bit thicker, toss in oil and a touch of sugar and salt (or spread a thin layer of ricotta on the dough and then top with the plum). You get the point; repeat with toppings of your choice.

6. 6

   Slide the topped dough onto the pizza stone. It may take 10 minutes; it may take less. Watch it closely, and a couple of minutes before the end, switch the oven to broil to crisp and brown the toppings. Serve.

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.