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1
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Brush a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with butter and dust it with flour.
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2
Whisk the flour and salt together in a bowl.
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3
In another medium bowl, rub the citrus zests into the sugar with your fingers until the sugar is fragrant and takes on a bit of the fruit color.
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4
Beat the eggs into the sugar with a wooden spoon until blended.
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5
Stir in the flour mixture to make a smooth, sticky but pourable batter.
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6
Stir in the pistachios.
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7
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, and smooth the surface lightly with a spatula.
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8
Bake until the loaf is lightly browned and pulling away from the sides of the pan, about 40 to 45 minutes.
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9
A skewer inserted into the center should come out clean, and the loaf will look like a not so great pound cake.
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10
Let stand for 10 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool on a rack for 1 hour.
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11
Wrap the loaf in plastic and freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.
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12
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.
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13
Slice the chilled loaf as thin as you can -- 6 to 8 slices to the inch.
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14
(It helps to mark the loaf lightly with a serrated knife every half-inch and use that as a guide.)
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15
Lay the slices flat on 2 baking sheets and bake until brown, 10 to 15 minutes.
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16
(Take care -- the cookies can go from pale to dark brown quickly.)
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17
Let stand overnight or for at least 12 hours on a rack to cool and crisp up.
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18
Serve.
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19
Store in a well-sealed jar or other container.
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20
Busy baker's tips: The loaf can be stored well-wrapped at room temperature for a week, or frozen for a month.
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21
The melbas are best stored in an airtight container, away from moist cookies and cakes.
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22
Freeze slices double-wrapped in plastic wrap for up to 1 month.
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23
Defrost in their wrappers.
