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1
If the pumpkin seeds you have are already toasted, proceed to step 2.
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2
Otherwise, heat 3 tablespoons of the lard in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat.
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3
A minute later, add the pumpkin seeds and cook, shaking and stirring the pan constantly for a minute or two, until the seeds start to puff.
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4
(Take care not to overcook the seeds, which will make the sauce bitter; and be prepared for flying seeds popping out of the pan.)
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5
Remove the toasted seeds with a slotted spoon and cool.
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6
(Discard any blackened seeds.)
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7
Meanwhile, warm the stock and soak the chiles in it.
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8
When they have softened, after 10 to 15 minutes, remove their stems and seeds; reserve the soaking liquid.
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9
Put the seeds in a food processor and process until pasty, stopping the machine and scraping down the sides if necessary.
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10
Add the garlic, chiles, and as much of the soaking liquid as you need to process until quite smooth.
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11
Turn the heat under the pan back to medium and add the remaining lard or oil.
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12
Reheat the sauce with enough liquid to thin to a pleasing consistency, stirring occasionally, until it just boils and thickens slightly.
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13
Remove from the heat.
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14
Taste and add salt and pepper as needed, then stir in the lime juice; serve hot or at room temperature.
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15
(This keeps well, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days; bring back to room temperature or reheat before serving and always add the lime juice at the last minute.)
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16
In step 2, add 2 tomatoes (preferably peeled and seeded) and 2 to 4 garlic cloves, peeled, to the mix; you will need less of the reserved liquid.
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17
Omit the lard and toast the pumpkin seeds as you would sesame seeds (page 596).
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18
Omit the ancho chiles and puree the toasted seeds with chile powder to taste (about 1 tablespoon), at least 1/4 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade (page 160), or water, and salt and pepper to taste.
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19
Reheat and add the lime juice.
