Panettone

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   The day before making the bread, make the wild-yeast sponge.

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   Stir together the barm, milk, and flour in a mixing bowl just long enough to hydrate all the flour and to make a sponge.

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   Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and ferment at room temperature for approximately 4 hours, or until the sponge begins to foam and bubble, then put it in the refrigerator overnight.

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   While waiting for the sponge to ferment, mix together the raisins and candied fruit in a bowl.

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   Add the liquor and extracts.

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   Cover the bowl and let this sit out overnight to allow the fruit to fully absorb the liquid.

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   The next day, remove the wild-yeast sponge from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough to take off the chill.

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   To make the dough, stir together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer).

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   Add the sponge, the egg, and the egg yolk.

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    Stir these together (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) until they form a firm, but supple, ball.

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    Add as much of the lukewarm water as needed to form a dough.

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    Stop mixing and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes to let the gluten begin to develop.

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    Add the softened butter and the soaked fruit mixture and continue mixing until the ingredients are evenly distributed.

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    Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin to knead (or mix on low speed with the dough hook).

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    Knead (or mix) the dough gently for 2 to 4 minutes, until it is soft and supple but not overly sticky (it can be very tacky).

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    Add flour if necessary (you will probably have to sprinkle small amounts of flour continually as you knead to keep it from sticking to your hands, but use only the minimum necessary to allow you to knead without getting the dough all over your hands).

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    While kneading, gradually work in the almonds until they too are evenly distributed.

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    The entire process, after the resting period, should take 6 to 10 minutes.

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    The dough must be soft and supple, tacky but not sticky.

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    It should pass the windowpane test (page 58) and register 77 to 81F.

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    Lightly oil a bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil.

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    Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

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    Ferment the dough at room temperature for approximately 2 hours.

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    It will rise very slowly and should increase to only about 1 1/2 times its original size.

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    If you are not using professional panettone papers, prepare pans as shown in the Preparing Panettone Pans sidebar.

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    Divide the dough into the desired sizes.

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    If you are making large 2-pound loaves, divide the dough in half and round the pieces into 2 boules.

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    Place them into the baking papers or into prepared pans 6 inches in diameter.

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    Press the dough down slightly to spread it into the papers or pans.

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    The dough should reach halfway up the forms.

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    Mist the dough with spray oil and loosely cover the pans with plastic wrap.

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    If you are making mini panettones, use individual-size baking papers or grease muffin pans and fill each cup half full.

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    (You will not need to make parchment collars or bottoms for the muffin pans.)

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    For large and small loaves alike, proof the dough at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until it nearly doubles and has risen just to the height of the papers or pans.

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    Preheat the oven to 325F with the oven rack in the lower third of the oven.

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    Bake large loaves for up to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the oven; bake mini loaves for 25 to 35 minutes.

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    The top of the dough may get very dark before the center reaches 185F.

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    If so, cover the tops with aluminum foil or a sheet of baking parchment.

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    The finished breads should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom, be golden brown all around, and register at least 185F in the center.

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    If using baking papers, you may leave the bread in the paper while it cools, but remove it from the pans.

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    In any case, transfer the breads to a cooling rack and thoroughly cool before serving, at least 2 hours.

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    These breads are best kept by wrapping them in aluminum foil after they completely cool.

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    They can be stored at room temperature for as long as 2 weeks.

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    (Some people keep them longer, but I think they lose quality beyond this point.)

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    You can also freeze them for up to 3 months to save for special occasions.

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    Use the bottom of the round pan to trace a circle on baking parchment.

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    (A-B) Cut out the circle and place it in the bottom of the pan.

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    (C) You may also make a parchment collar to ensure easy removal after baking.

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    Note: If using muffin pans, theres no need to use parchment lining.

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    Rich, standard dough; indirect method; mixed leavening method

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    Day 1: 5 minutes mixing; 4 hours fermentation

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    Day 2: 12 to 15 minutes mixing; 4 hours fermentation, shaping, and proofing; 25 to 90 minutes baking

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    The formula calls for candied fruit, but many people prefer using dried fruit, such as dried cranberries, apricots, and apples.

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    Feel free to make a substitution if you prefer.

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    The SAF company makes a gold-labeled yeast that is osmotolerant (see page 61), which means it performs well in acidic and extra-sweet doughs.

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    It is now available to home bakers but is not required.

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    Regular instant yeast will also work, but it may take longer to wake up and perform, as the sugar and acid in the dough tends to shock it.

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    You are free to experiment with your liquor and extract choices.

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    Some people prefer to use orange liqueur, for instance, or regular or flavored brandy (like cherry schnapps), whiskey, or rum.

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    Extracts, such as almond, orange, or lemon, are also alcohol-based, but the flavors are highly concentrated, so in some respects you will get more bang for your buck.

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    I prefer to use a blend of both liquor and extracts, but you can double the amount of extract and eliminate the liquor.

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    Fiori di Sicilia, a wonderful blend of extracts and floral oils that is ideal in this bread, is available through the Bakers Catalogue (see Resources) as well as other sources.

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    It is now possible to buy professional panettone baking papers (pictured on page 205) at kitchenware stores or through mail-order catalogs (see Resources, page 286).

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    Like muffn-cup papers, they allow you to bake the loaves in them while being decorative enough to leave the baked loaves in them.

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    They come in many sizes, and though they do not require oiling, I always mist them with spray oil for release.

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    If you bake your panettone in standard round pans or muffin tins, consult the photographs on page 205 for readying the pans for baking.

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    This is a great way to turn holiday bread into a simple but impressive dessert.

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    It is essentially a fancy bread pudding with a broiled sugar top.

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    I first made it at Philippe Chins restaurant, Philippe on Locust, for Philadelphias the Book & the Cook Festival in March 2000.

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    Pastry Chef Michael Vandergeest added some creative serving accompanimentsfresh raspberries with a few drizzles of chocolate sauce and raspberry sorbetto make this an elegant presentation.

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    The sorbet lent a nice flavor contrast to the rich bread pudding brule.

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    Heres how to make it:

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    Bake a full batch of either Panettone or Stollen in 8 to 12 small rounds (I baked them in muffin cups at Philippes, using about 3 ounces of dough for each).

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    After baking, cut off the tops and scoop out the insides, collecting the scooped dough for the pudding.

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    Set the hollowed shells and tops aside and cover with plastic wrap.

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    Make a custard base by combining 1 1/2 cups milk or heavy cream; 1 cup sugar; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 3 large eggs; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 tablespoon orange, lemon, or almond extract; and 1/4 cup rum or brandy (optional).

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    Whisk into a smooth batter.

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    Pour the batter over the scooped bread pieces.

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    Spread this mixture into an oiled 6-inch-square baking pan or 1-quart casserole dish and place this dish in another, larger ovenproof dish or pan.

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    Place the double pan in a preheated 325F oven and pour enough hot water into the outer pan to protect the sides of the smaller pan, up to the height of the bread filling.

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    Bake for approximately 1 hour, or until the bread pudding is above 180F in the center.

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    Carefully remove the pans from the oven and then remove the smaller dish from the larger and cool at room temperature for 30 minutes.

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    Cover the pudding with plastic wrap and cool it in the refrigerator for another hour (or overnight).

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    Fill the hollowed bread shells with the bread pudding, sprinkle granulated sugar over the top (you can also use coarse AA sugar or sanding sugar if you have some on hand), and lightly mist it with water.

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    Place under a broiler for about 3 minutes, or until the sugar melts and caramelizes.

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    (If you have a small blowtorch, you can also caramelize the tops individually with the torch.)

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    Lean the top of the shell against the side of the loaf or arrange decoratively.

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    Serve alone or with sorbet and berries.

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    Panettone %

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    (WILD-YEAST SPONGE)

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    Barm: 156%

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    Milk: 178%

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    All-purpose flour: 100%

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    Total 434%

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    (DOUGH)

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    Wild-yeast sponge: 144%

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    Fruit blend: 126%

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    All-purpose flour: 100%

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    Sugar: 11.1%

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     Salt: 1.4%

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     Instant yeast: 2.4%

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     Egg: 12.2%

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     Egg yolk: 4.8%

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     Water (approx.

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     ): 18.5%

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     Butter: 29.6%

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     Almonds: 37%

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     Total: 487%

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.