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If there is any dish in Italy that comes close to being a part of every family's repertory, it is probably this exquisitely simple pan- roasted veal. There is an infinite number of ways of roasting veal more elaborately, but there is none that produces more savory or succulent, tender meat. The success of this method lies in slow, watchful cooking, carefully regulating the amount of liquid so that there is just enough to keep the veal from drying out but not so much as to saturate it and dilute its flavor.
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The best-looking roast comes from the top round, which some butchers will prepare for you. Rolled, boned shoulder of veal also makes an excellent and considerably less expensive roast.
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1. If the roast is to be rolled, spread on it the garlic, rosemary, and pepper while it is flat, then roll and tie it securely. If it is a solid piece, pierce it at several points with a sharp, narrow-bladed knife and insert the rosemary and garlic. (You will season it with pepper later.) Tie it securely.
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2. Choose a heavy-bottomed saucepan or casserole, preferably oval, just large enough for the meat. Heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat and when the butter foam begins to subside add the meat and brown it well on all sides for about 15 minutes. Sprinkle the meat with salt and, if it was omitted before, pepper.
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3. Cook just long enough to turn the roast once and then add the wine. As soon as the wine comes to a boil, lower the heat so that it is barely simmering, set the cover askew, and cook until the meat is tender when pierced by a fork, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Turn the roast from time to time, and if the cooking liquid dries up add 1 or 2 tablespoons of warm water.
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4. When the roast is done, transfer it to a cutting board. If there is no liquid left in the pan, put in 1/2 cup of water. Evaporate the water rapidly over high heat while loosening the cooking residues stuck to the pan. All together you should have about a spoonful of sauce per serving, so, if there is too much liquid left, concentrate it quickly over high heat. Cut the roast into slices no more than 1/4 inch thick. Arrange them on a warm platter, spoon the sauce over them and serve immediately.
