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1
Trim off both ends of the squash and cut it in half.
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2
Quarter each half lengthwise and remove the spongy seeded center.
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3
Cut each quarter into 1/2-inch cubes.
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4
Set aside.
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5
In a 3- or 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat.
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6
Add the onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until fragrant and soft.
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7
Add the chicken or pork and continue cooking for about 2 minutes, or until the meat begins to color.
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8
Add the salt and fish sauce and cook for 1 minute to develop the flavors.
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9
Add the water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil.
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10
Skim and discard any scum that floats to the top.
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11
Add the squash cubes and return to a boil.
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12
Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the squash is tender and no longer floats on the surface.
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13
(The simmering time depends on the maturity of the squash; old squash with thick skin will take longer.)
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14
If you are not serving the soup right away, turn off the heat and cover.
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15
Just before serving, return the soup to a simmer and add the white pepper.
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16
Taste and add extra salt or fish sauce, if necessary.
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17
Ladle into a serving bowl and garnish with the cilantro.
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18
Serve immediately.