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1
Pick over clams, discarding any with cracked shells or that feel heavy, an indication they are full of mud.
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2
Rinse them under cold running water to get rid of surface grit.
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3
If clams are very gritty, set them in a bowl with brine solution and keep cool, or refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
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4
Drain clams, and place in a large, heavy soup kettle; add about 1/2 inch water to kettle, and set over medium heat.
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5
Cook, uncovered, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until all clams have opened.
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6
As they open, remove them from kettle and set aside.
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7
(Any clams that fail to open after 10 to 15 minutes should be discarded.)
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8
Strain clam liquor through several layers of cheesecloth into a 2-cup measuring cup, and set aside.
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9
Remove clams from shells, and set aside.
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10
Rinse out soup kettle and return to stove top.
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11
Add salt pork, pancetta or bacon dice and 1 tablespoon butter, and cook slowly over medium-low heat until dice brown a little on edges.
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12
Use a slotted spoon to remove dice from fat.
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13
Set aside.
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14
Add onions to fat and cook, stirring frequently, until soft but not brown.
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15
Stir in potatoes, and continue cooking another 5 minutes, until potatoes begin to soften.
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16
Add enough water to clam liquor in measuring cup to make 2 cups; pour this over potatoes.
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17
Add black pepper and bay leaves.
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18
Simmer gently, partially covered, until potatoes are tender.
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19
Add whole milk and simmer again.
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20
Stir in clams and evaporated milk or cream, stirring gently so as not to break open clam bellies.
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21
Taste, and add salt if necessary.
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22
Let come just to a simmer, and remove from heat.
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23
(Do not let chowder come to a full boil.)
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24
Chowder can be set in a cool place for several hours to develop flavors.
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25
Reheat to a simmer (do not let boil), then stir in chives or parsley and remaining butter just before serving.
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26
Pass common crackers at the table if you wish.
