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1
Make the cheese puffs: Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
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2
Bring 1 1/4 cups water, the butter and 1 teaspoon salt to a simmer in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the butter melts.
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3
Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball.
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4
Continue cooking, stirring vigorously, until the dough is no longer sticky, 1 to 2 more minutes.
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5
Remove from the heat and let cool 2 to 3 minutes.
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6
Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat in the eggs one at a time on medium-high speed until the dough is smooth.
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7
Add the celery salt and a few grinds of pepper and beat 1 more minute.
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8
(The dough should be tight and stiff.)
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9
Beat in the gruyere.
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10
Transfer the dough to a large pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip.
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11
Pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds of dough 2 inches apart onto the prepared baking sheets (about 18 per sheet).
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12
Smooth the tops of the dough mounds with a damp finger.
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13
Transfer to the oven and bake until puffed and golden, about 30 minutes, switching the position of the pans halfway through.
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14
Turn off the oven.
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15
Remove the baking sheets and use a needle or toothpick to poke a hole in each puff to release steam.
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16
Return to the oven until crisp, about 20 more minutes.
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17
Remove from the oven and let the puffs cool completely on the baking sheets.
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18
Meanwhile, make the cheese spread: Beat the cream cheese, goat cheese, garlic, parmesan and herbs with a mixer until smooth.
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19
Season with salt and pepper.
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20
Clean out the pastry bag and fill with the cheese spread.
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21
Assemble the tower: Arrange a 7-inch circle of cheese puffs on a platter, using the cheese spread to secure them to the platter.
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22
Fill the base circle with more puffs for stability, then continue building a cone-shaped tower of smaller circles, using the cheese spread to attach the puffs.
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23
Garnish with thyme sprigs and parmesan.
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24
The tower will keep at room temperature for up to 1 hour.
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25
Photograph by Kang Kim