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1
To make the ragu, cut the meat into 1/2-inch cubes.
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2
Place the meat in a nonreactive baking dish, season it with the salt and pepper, and toss to coat the meat all over with the seasonings.
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3
Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
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4
Combine the Soffritto, olive oil, anchovies, and rosemary in a large saucepan over low heat and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to soften the rosemary and meld the flavors.
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5
Increase the heat to medium high.
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6
Move the vegetables to create a bare spot in the pan, add the tomato paste to that spot, and cook for 1 minute, stirring, to caramelize the tomato paste slightly.
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7
Add the wine, increase the heat to high, and boil the wine until the pan is almost dry, about 15 minutes.
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8
Add the tomato sauce, 2 cups of the chicken stock, and the red pepper flakes, and bring the sauce to a simmer.
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9
Add the meat, return the sauce to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer the ragu, adding more chicken stock from time to time to keep the ragu from getting too thick or sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the meat is tender, about 4 hours.
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10
To test for doneness, put a cube of meat on a plate.
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11
If you can smash it easily with the back of the spoon, its done; otherwise, continue cooking.
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12
When the ragu is done, turn off the heat and let it rest for about 10 minutes.
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13
Ladle 1 cup of the ragu into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade or the jar of a blender.
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14
Pulse several times to chop the meat but not quite puree it.
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15
Return the chopped meat to the pan and stir to combine.
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16
If necessary, return the pot to medium heat and cook the ragu until the sauce is thick.
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17
Use ragu or allow it to cool to room temperature, transfer it to an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to three days; freeze it for as long as three months.
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18
Warm the ragu over medium heat before serving, adding enough water to loosen it to a saucelike consistency.
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19
To finish and serve the pasta, fill a pasta pot or large stockpot with 6 quarts of water, add 6 tablespoons of salt, and bring the water to a boil over high heat.
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20
If you are not using a pasta pot, place a colander in the sink or have a wire strainer handy.
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21
While the water is coming to a boil, combine 1 1/2 cups of the ragu with the tomato sauce, butter, and 1/2 cup of the salted pasta water in a large saute pan over medium heat.
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22
Cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, until the butter is melted and the sauce is warmed through, adding more pasta water if necessary to obtain a loose, saucelike consistency.
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23
Reduce the heat to low while you cook the maltagliati.
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24
Remove the maltagliati from the refrigerator or freezer and drop them into the boiling water.
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25
Stir to prevent them from sticking together, partially cover the pot so the water returns to a boil quickly and continues boiling, and cook the pasta until its al dente, about 2 minutes.
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26
About 1 minute before the pasta is done, place the sauce over high heat.
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27
Lift the pasta out of the cooking water, or reserve 1 cup of the water and drain the pasta, and immediately add it to the pan with the sauce.
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28
Cook the pasta with the sauce for 2 minutes, stirring gently with a rubber spatula so you dont tear the pasta, to stain the pasta with the sauce, adding some of the reserved pasta water if the pasta is dry and sticky instead of slippery and glistening.
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29
Turn off the heat and gently stir in the parsley.
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30
Add the finishing-quality olive oil, stirring vigorously and shaking the pan to emulsify the sauce, taking care not to tear the pasta in the process.
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31
Add the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and pecorino romano and stir to combine.
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32
Spoon the maltagliati in the center of each of six plates, dividing them evenly, and spoon any sauce remaining in the pan over the pasta.
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33
Use a microplane or another fine grater to grate a light layer of Parmigiano-Reggiano over each plate, and serve.
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34
Montefalco Rosso (Umbria)
