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1
To cook the maccheroni: heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.
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2
Drop the butter into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat.
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3
As the butter melts, scatter in the grated lemon zest; stir it around until sizzling.
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4
Pour in the white wine and lemon juice, add the salt, stir, and bring the liquids to a bubbling simmer.
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5
Cover the skillet, and let cook for a couple of minutes.
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6
Uncover the pan, and slowly pour in the cream, whisking it steadily into the simmering wine and lemon juice.
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7
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquids reduce to a saucy consistency you like, 2 or 3 minutes more.
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8
After whisking in the cream, start cooking the pasta.
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9
Shake excess flour off the fresh maccheroni, and drop it into the boiling water, stirring to separate the strands.
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10
Return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until al dente.
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11
With the lemon-and-cream sauce at a simmer, quickly lift out the maccheroni and drop it all into the skillet.
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12
Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta-cooking water if needed.
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13
Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni, and toss well.
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14
Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls.
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15
Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.