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1
Remove the head sacs (behind the eyes) in the carapaces; discard.
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2
Remove any green tomalley or red roe; reserve for another use or discard.
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3
Wrap the shells in a clean kitchen towel.
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4
Using a rolling pin, meat pounder, or hammer, break the shells (some large pieces might remain).
-
5
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat until hot but not smoking.
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6
Add the shells; cook until fragrant (do not let blacken), about 3 minutes.
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7
Stir in the onions, carrots, celery, garlic, and fennel (if desired).
-
8
Cook, without stirring, until the vegetables begin to brown, about 3 minutes.
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9
Add the tomatoes, wine (if desired), peppercorns, thyme, parsley, and bay leaf.
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10
Fill the pot two-thirds with cold water (about 4 1/2 quarts).
-
11
Bring to a boil.
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12
Reduce heat; simmer.
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13
Skim the froth from the surface with a ladle.
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14
Cook until the broth is aromatic and flavorful, about 1 hour 45 minutes.
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15
Carefully pour the stock through a fine sieve set over a large bowl or container.
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16
Discard the solids; let stock cool completely.
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17
If not using immediately, refrigerate in airtight containers up to 3 days, or freeze up to 2 months.
