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1
Cook sugar syrup Bring sugar and the water to a boil in a small saucepan, swirling pan to dissolve sugar, and washing down sides of pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming.
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2
(Do not stir.)
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Boil until syrup registers 238F on a candy thermometer.
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Meanwhile, whip egg whites Beat egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on low speed until foamy.
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Add cream of tartar and salt.
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Raise speed to medium; mix until soft peaks form.
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(If the egg whites reach soft peaks before the syrup reaches 238F, reduce the mixer speed to low.
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Do not stop mixing, as the meringue will start to separate if not continually mixed.
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Continuing to mix on high speed, however, could cause the egg whites to be overbeaten.)
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Combine syrup and whites With mixer running, slowly pour hot sugar syrup down the side of the mixing bowl, without touching whisk attachment.
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Mix on medium-high speed until stiff, glossy peaks form and mixture has partially cooled, 5 to 7 minutes.
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Beat in lemon juice or vanilla.
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Use immediately.
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A reliable candy thermometer is crucial.
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You will also need a pastry brush for washing down the sides of the saucepan as the sugar syrup cooks, to prevent crystals from forming.