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1
Place the ribs meat-side down on a baking sheet or cutting board and remove the papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a small knife beneath it and levering it.
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2
Peel off the membrane and discard.
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3
Mix the salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika and a pinch of red pepper flakes to taste, breaking up the brown sugar with a fork.
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4
Using your hands, cover the meat entirely in this rub.
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5
Place a stovetop smoker on a burner.
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6
(Alternately, you can make one by lining the inside of a large wok with wide, heavy foil.)
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7
Place the wood chips on the bottom of the smoker, toward the center.
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8
Cover with the drip pan.
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9
Set the grate over the drip pan.
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10
(If using a homemade wok smoker, place the wood chips on the bottom of the foil-lined wok.
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11
Make a drip pan by placing a heavy piece of foil over both the chips and the bottom of the wok, but do not let it rise up the sides.
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12
Set a small, round baking rack, about 9 inches in diameter, over the drip pan.)
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13
Cut each rib rack in half.
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14
Place two rib pieces, meat-side down, on the baking rack, then set a second baking rack - about 11 inches in diameter, if using a wok - over the ribs and place the remaining two rib pieces, meat-side-down, on top.
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15
Cover tightly with foil, making sure there is at least 1 inch of space between the foil lid and the ribs.
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16
Set the heat to high.
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17
When smoke appears, lower the heat to medium-high and smoke for as long as you can stand the smoke, no more than 2 hours.
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18
(The tighter the lid, the less smoke will be released.)
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19
Transfer the wok outdoors before removing the lid.
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20
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
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21
Set the rib racks on a rimmed baking sheet.
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22
Place in the oven and cook for 5 hours.
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23
The meat will darken.
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24
Cut into individual portions.
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25
Serve with napkins and, if you choose, barbecue sauce.
