Ham with Apple Juice and Parsnip Puree

Put the ham in a large saucepan; it should fit snugly.

Cover with water, bring to the boil, then pour the water away.

Rinse the ham and return to the pot.

Split the leeks in half, discarding most of the tough, dark green tops.

Rinse them thoroughly under cold running water to remove any trapped grit that may be lurking between the layers.

Cut the celery into short pieces and tuck them into the pot with the leeks and the whole carrot.

Pour in the apple juice, adding a top-up of water if it doesnt quite cover the ham.

Lightly crush the juniper berries with the flat side of a large knife, then add them to the pan with the cinnamon stick, peppercorns, parsley stems, and bay leaves.

Bring to a boil, decrease the heat to a jolly simmer, then scoop off the froth that floats on top.

Cover partially with a lid and leave it to get on with things for a couple of hours, checking from time to time that it isnt bubbling too fiercely or hasnt stopped altogether.

After two hours, check the ham for tenderness.

Leave in the cooking liquor, the heat switched off, for anything up to twenty minutes before carving.

Serve in thickish slices, drizzled with a spoonful of the hot, appley cooking liquor, with the vegetables if you wish, and the pureed parsnips.