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1
If you have fresh chiles, stem and seed them; if dried, soak in warm water for a few minutes until softened, then remove the stems and seeds.
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2
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat.
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3
Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper, then slide them into the hot oil.
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4
Cook, turning once, until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side.
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5
Remove the fish with a slotted spatula and drain on paper towels.
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6
Add the garlic, onion, and chiles to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
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7
Add the tomatoes and cook until they release their juices, about 5 minutes.
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8
Stir in the nam pla, sugar, and stock.
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9
After the sauce reduces and thickens slightly, about 5 minutes, add the scallion and return the fish to the pan.
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10
Cook just until the fish is heated through, about 5 minutes.
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11
Garnish with cilantro and serve.
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12
Prepare the chiles as directed.
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13
Use about a 3-pound grouper, sea bass, or red snapper, gutted and scaled.
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14
Make 3 shallow cuts, from top to bottom, on each side of the fish.
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15
Put 1/2 cup oil in a nonstick skillet that will accommodate the fish and turn the heat to high.
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16
A few minutes later, when the oil is hota pinch of flour will sizzledredge the fish heavily on both sides in flour, then gently lower it into the oil.
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17
Cook until golden brown on both sides, turning just once and adjusting the heat if necessary to prevent scorching.
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18
Transfer the fish to a platter and pour off the oil; wipe it out with a towel.
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19
Return the skillet to the stove over medium-high heat and add the 3 tablespoons of oil.
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20
Proceed to step 2.
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21
In step 3, when you return the fish to the skillet, partially cover the skillet with a lid or a piece of foil, and cook the fish without turning for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meat near the bone is pearly white.
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22
Serve, scooping the meat from the bone and serving it with the sauce.