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1
Heat oven to 325 degrees.
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2
Butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter and line the bottom with parchment paper.
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3
Mix the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl and set side.
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4
Using an electric mixer, cream 1 1/2 sticks of the butter (12 tablespoons) in a large bowl until very smooth.
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5
Continuing to beat, slowly add the sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.
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6
Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated.
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7
Beat in the rose water.
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8
Stir in the dry ingredients by hand until just incorporated.
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9
Beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then fold them gently into the butter-sugar mixture.
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10
(The batter will be quite stiff.)
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11
Transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the surface, and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes.
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12
Allow cake to rest for 5 minutes, then invert it onto a baking rack.
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13
Turn right side up and allow to cool to room temperature before cutting into 3/4-inch slices.
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14
Light a medium fire in a grill.
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15
When hot, brush each slice of cake lightly with some of the remaining butter and grill until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes a side.
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16
Serve immediately, accompanied by peach compote (see recipe).