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1
Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill; the fire should be quite hot (on a gas grill, as hot as you can get it) and the rack no more than 4 inches from the heat source and preferably less.
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2
Or preheat a heavy pan over high heat (and turn on an exhaust fan if you have one) for about 5 minutes.
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3
If you need to clean the squid, pull off the head and tentacles and separate them by cutting just behind the head; save the tentacles and discard the head.
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4
Rinse out the inside of the bodies and dry well.
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5
Sprinkle the squid with coarse salt and toss them lightly with a tablespoon or two of olive oil.
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6
If you are grilling, skewer the squid.
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7
Grill or pan-grill the squid quickly, about 1 minute per side; they should brown nicely but remain moist inside.
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8
Put the squid on a plate.
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9
Drizzle with a little more olive oil and sprinkle with lemon juice or vinegar and a bit more salt.
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10
Serve immediately.
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11
Here the grill is requisite, because the soy sauce coating would burn on a griddle: After cleaning the squid, marinate them briefly in a mixture of 1/4 cup soy sauce and 2 tablespoons mirin (or 1 tablespoon honey mixed with 1 tablespoon white wine).
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12
Grill and garnish with toasted sesame seeds (page 596).
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13
(Black sesame seeds are more commonly used here, and they look nice against the white squid, so if you can find them, by all means use them.
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14
Look in Japanese, Chinese, or Indian stores.)
