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1
Heat a large heavy pot over high heat.
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2
When the pan is hot, add meat and cook, stirring to break up chunks, until any liquid has evaporated and the meat starts to fry in its own fat.
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3
Use a sturdy spoon and scrape the bottom often, to prevent burning.
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4
When meat is golden and crusty, 10 to 15 minutes, add carrots, onions and celery.
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5
Keep stirring and scraping over medium-high heat.
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6
When vegetables have softened and meat is dark brown, reduce heat to low and pour in white wine.
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7
Scrape all the drippings up from the bottom of the pot.
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8
Add milk, stock and tomato paste, bring to a simmer, and mix the sauce until smooth.
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9
Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.
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10
Add salt and pepper to taste.
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11
Add bay leaves and sage and cook until meat is very soft and sauce is thick, about 30 minutes more.
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12
Set aside, or cool and refrigerate up to 3 days.
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13
Bring to room temperature or warm before using.
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14
Make the bechamel sauce: In a heavy saucepan, melt butter until bubbly.
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15
Sprinkle flour on the butter and cook, stirring, until it smells buttery and turns golden.
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16
Whisking vigorously over medium heat, slowly pour in milk and whisk until mixture starts to thicken, about 2 minutes.
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17
Add nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste.
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18
Keep whisking and cooking for another 5 to 10 minutes: the sauce should be thick and smooth, with no floury taste.
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19
Set aside, or cool to room temperature and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
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20
Bring to room temperature or warm before using; whisk in more milk if necessary to make a texture like thin mayonnaise.
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21
Transfer to a pastry bag or thick sealable plastic bag.
