Fried Pickled Celery

1. 1

   Put celery into a medium-sized saucepan; cover with water. Add 1/2 tsp peppercorns and 2 bay leaves and season generously with kosher salt. Cover and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until celery is tender but not soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. Using tongs, transfer celery to a heat-proof bowl.

2. 2

   Meanwhile, make the brine by combining vinegar and water in a saucepan with remaining 1/2 tsp peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, sugar, celery seeds, chili flakes, and lemon juice and zest; bring to a boil and then remove from heat. (Brine can be made several days in advance and chilled until ready to use.)

3. 3

   Pour the brine over the celery and let stand until cool, about 20 to 25 minutes. (If your brine is already chilled, you can skip this cooling step.) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to a couple of days.

4. 4

   In a large pot or fryer, heat oil to 365 to 370 degrees F. You want the oil to be at least a few inches deep, with at least two to three inches of clearance from the top of the pan. While you bread the celery and lemon (if using), closely monitor your oil, adjusting the heat as needed to reach this temperature.

5. 5

   While the oil is coming to temperature, set up your breading station. Place the buttermilk in a wide, shallow bowl or pie plate. Right next to this bowl, mix the flour, semolina, and cayenne in a wide, shallow bowl or pie plate. Then place a large sheet pan right next to the flour mixture. Place a few pieces of celery in the buttermilk - then transfer them to the bed of flour. Coat all sides. Lift out, tapping or shaking off the excess flour, and transfer them to a sheet pan in a single layer. Repeat with the remaining celery and lemon slices, if using. You can hold the breaded celery and lemons at room temperature for up to 1/2 hour before frying.

6. 6

   When the oil is at temperature, fry the celery in small batches. You don't want an overcrowded pot as that leads to a soggy fry. Using tongs or a fork, very gently turn the celery a few times until it's a deep golden brown on all sides, about 2 minutes. Once done, lift out the celery with tongs or a skimmer, then transfer to a paper-lined plate. Repeat the frying and draining of the remaining celery and lemons (if using) in the same manner, making sure to spread (not stack) the fried food in a single layer to cool.

7. 7

   Serve hot with a sprinkling of coarse salt and finely chopped celery leaves.

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