Fresh Egg Pasta

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   To make the dough: Put the 2 1/2 cups flour on a large work surface.

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   Make a well in the center large enough to contain the eggs.

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   Make sure your flour walls are high enough to keep the eggs from escaping.

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   Pour the eggs into the well.

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   With a fork, begin drawing in flour from the sides and whisking it with the eggs.

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   Take care not to let the runny eggs breach the flour walls or you will have a mess.

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   As you incorporate more flour and the egg mixture thickens, you can relax about the walls.

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   When the dough becomes too stiff to mix with the fork, continue with your hands.

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   You wont be able to incorporate all the flour, at least not at first, but use enough to make a dough you can knead without it sticking to your hands.

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    Sift the remaining flour to remove any coarse particles, and wash your hands to remove any caked-on bits.

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    Now knead by hand for several minutes, adding as much reserved flour as you need to make a smooth dough without a trace of stickiness.

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    Shape the dough into a rectangle and divide it in half.

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    Set aside one-half, covered with a clean dish towel.

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    Now you will make pasta sheets with the other half, using the pasta machine.

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    Lightly flour the work surface.

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    Firmly clamp your pasta machine to an immovable surface.

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    Set the rollers on the widest setting.

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    With a rolling pin, flatten the dough into a rectangle thin enough to go through the rollers.

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    Feed it through one time.

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    Lay the resulting ribbon on your lightly floured work surface, then fold it in thirds, matching edges to make a neat rectangle.

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    With the rolling pin, roll it out in the other direction (with the open ends at the top and bottom), flouring as necessary to keep it from sticking.

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    Try to keep the open ends matched up so you continue to have a neat rectangle.

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    With the roller still on the widest setting, repeat the process at least nine times: feeding the dough through, folding the ribbon in thirds, then flouring and flattening.

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    With each successive trip through the rollers, you should need less flour.

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    At the end of this mechanical kneading, you should have a smooth, silky, well-blended ribbon of dough.

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    If not, continue the process until you do.

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    To stretch the dough: Now you are ready to begin the stretching process by feeding the ribbon through progressively narrower settings, beginning again with the widest one.

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    Cut the ribbon into manageable lengths whenever it gets too unwieldy.

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    Resist flouring the dough at this point because the flour wont be well incorporated; dust lightly with flour only if the dough threatens to stick to the rollers.

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    I find that setting number 5 on the KitchenAid attachment is thin enough for fettuccine, which should be delicate but not insubstantial.

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    The noodles should be neither so thick that they are chewy, nor so thin that they clump after cooking.

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    Pasta for lasagne and cannelloni should be thinner; I use setting number Pasta for ravioli should be as thin as you can comfortably make it; I use setting number You will need to find the settings you prefer on your own machine, which may take a few attempts.

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    As you finish stretching each sheet, lay it on a clean dish towel to rest.

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    While you wait for the first batch of sheets to dry, repeat the mechanical kneading and stretching process with the second half of the dough.

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    To cut the noodles (see also Notes): Depending on how much flour you worked into the dough, the sheets may be ready to cut immediately or they may need to dry awhile.

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    If they feel at all damp, the noodles will stick together when you cut them.

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    Let the sheets air dry, checking them every 30 minutes, until they are no longer damp (but not too dry or they will crack in the cutter).

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    You can cut the sheets into noodles of the desired width by hand (see Notes) or using the pasta machines cutting attachments.

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    To cut the pasta by hand, start at one of the sheets narrow ends and loosely roll it like a jelly roll, leaving a 1-inch tail.

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    With a sharp chefs knife, cut ribbons of the desired width.

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    Grab the noodles by the exposed ends, lift them up, and they will unfurl.

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    Arrange the noodles on a dish towel or on a surface lightly dusted with semolina.

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    Let dry at least 30 minutes before cooking.

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    You can make fresh noodles several hours ahead and keep them at cool room temperature.

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    You can also freeze fresh pasta with some success.

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    Freeze it in a sturdy plastic bag and cook it directly from the freezer; do not thaw first.

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    Variations:

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    Fresh Saffron Pasta

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    You can buy powdered saffron, but I prefer to use saffron threads pounded in a mortar; that way I know Im getting an unadulterated product.

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    Enough saffron threads to yield 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron

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    Approximately 2 1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour

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    3 extra large eggs, lightly beaten

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    Stir the saffron into the flour, blending well, then proceed according to the directions for Fresh Egg Pasta.

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    Fresh Spinach Pasta

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    3/4 pound spinach (not baby spinach)

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    2 extra large eggs

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    Approximately 2 3/4 cups unbleached all purpose flour

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    Discard any thick spinach stems.

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    Put the spinach in a large pot with just the wash water clinging to the leaves.

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    Cover and cook over moderate heat until the spinach wilts.

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    Drain and cool under running water, then squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible.

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    Put the spinach in a food processor with 1 of the eggs.

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    Puree until the spinach is as fine as possible.

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    Beat the other egg in a small bowl.

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    Put the flour on a large work surface and make a well in the center.

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    Put the spinach and the beaten egg in the well.

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    Proceed according to the directions for Fresh Egg Pasta.

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.