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1
Combine blackberries, 3 tablespoons sugar, pinch salt, and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small saucepan or skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, smashing berries with a potato masher or whisk, until a dark, syrupy mash has formed, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon lemon zest and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Add more sugar to taste, if needed. Compote should be sweet and tart. Set aside.
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2
Combine ricotta and remaining 2 teaspoons lemon zest in a bowl and stir with a spoon. Add a few splashes of milk, if necessary, to adjust mixture to a consistency that is not runny but spreads very slowly when you pile it up with a spoon. Set aside.
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3
Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 200u00b0F (95u00b0C). If using very fresh, moist bread, arrange slices in a single layer on rack and cook in oven, turning once, until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes.
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4
Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom or nutmeg until thoroughly combined. Add milk and whisk to blend.
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5
Heat 1 tablespoon (15g) butter in a large nonstick or cast iron skillet over medium heat, swirling skillet, until foaming subsides, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, soak 2 slices of bread in egg bath, turning, until saturated. Add soaked bread to skillet and cook, swirling occasionally, until browned on bottom side, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle top side of bread with sugar, flip, and continue to cook, swirling occasionally, until browned on second side, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer French toast to rack in oven, arranging in a single layer, to keep warm. Repeat with remaining slices of bread and egg bath.
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6
Serve French toast with ricotta and compote spooned on top. Garnish with more lemon zest, if desired.