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1
Rinse the fish and place in a kettle with the bay leaves and peppercorns.
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2
Add water to cover, at least two and one-half cups, and bring to a simmer over gentle heat.
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3
Cover the kettle and let simmer, 10 to 15 minutes, until the fish is cooked through but still firm-textured.
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4
(If necessary, you may cut the fish in half in order to fit the kettle.)
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5
Remove the fish from the broth.
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6
Skin and bone the cooked fish, break the flesh into chunks and set aside.
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7
Return the skin and bones, as well as head and tail pieces, to the broth and continue to simmer, covered, for 30 minutes to give a well-flavored broth for the chowder.
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8
Melt the butter in another soup kettle and gently saute the diced salt pork until the scraps have rendered their fat and turned crisp and brown.
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9
Remove the pork, drain on absorbent paper and set aside.
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10
In the hot fat, saute the onion slices gently until they begin to brown.
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11
Then add the potato cubes and turn in hot fat to coat them well.
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12
When the potatoes begin to sizzle, add at least two cups of fish broth, strained of the bay leaves and peppercorns.
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13
The potatoes should be floating, but not drowning, in the liquid.
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14
Simmer gently, covered, until the potatoes are tender enough to pierce with a fork.
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15
Add the fish pieces and continue simmering another five minutes.
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16
Heat the whole milk to just below boiling.
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17
Add it, a quarter of a cup at a time, to the chowder.
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18
Heat the evaporated milk and add it in a similar fashion.
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19
From the moment the milk is added, the chowder must not boil.
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20
This is very important.
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21
If it boils, it may curdle.
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22
Taste for seasoning and add salt, pepper and the dry mustard powder.
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23
Mix well.
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24
Then put the chowder ''to set,'' as they say in Maine, for at least two hours.
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25
Ideally, it should be placed on the least warm area of the woodstove top where it will stay just below the simmering point.
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26
A very low gas flame, as long as the chowder doesn't boil, will do as well.
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27
If you can't keep it at a temperature just below boiling, it is better to refrigerate the chowder for a day, rather than leaving it at room temperature.
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28
When ready to serve, reheat the chowder, without bringing to the boil.
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29
Put a pat of butter in each chowder bowl before filling it, and sprinkle bits of browned pork scraps over the top.
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30
Pass the crackers to add to the soup.