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For the Barbecue Sauce:
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Combine the ketchup, brown sugar, lemon zest and juice, molasses, Worcestershire sauce, liquid smoke, mustard, onion powder, and pepper in a nonreactive saucepan and whisk to mix.
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Gradually bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat and let simmer until thick and flavorful, 8 to 10 minutes.
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Taste for seasoning, adding more lemon juice if necessary.
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Transfer the sauce to a bowl or clean jars and let cool to room temperature.
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Refrigerate the sauce, covered, until serving time; let it return to room temperature before using.
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The sauce can be refrigerated for several weeks.
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For the Ribs:
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Make the mop sauce: Melt the butter in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat.
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Stir in the cider, bourbon, and soy sauce.
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Keep warm until ready to use.
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Make the rub: Place the salt, brown sugar, paprika, pepper, mustard, garlic powder, and celery seed in a small bowl and mix with your fingers, breaking up any lumps in the brown sugar or garlic powder.
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Prepare the ribs: Place a rack of ribs meat side down on a baking sheet.
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Remove the thin, papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a slender implement, such as a butter knife or the tip of a meat thermometer, under it.
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The best place to start is on one of the middle bones.
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Using a dishcloth, paper towel, or pliers to gain a secure grip, peel off the membrane.
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Repeat with the remaining rack.
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Set aside 1 tablespoon of rub for serving.
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Sprinkle the remaining rub over both sides of the ribs, rubbing it onto the meat.
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Cover the ribs with plastic wrap and refrigerate them while you set up the grill.
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Set up the grill for indirect grilling (see Notes) and preheat to medium (325 to 350F).
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Place a large drip pan in the center of the grill under the grate.
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(For instructions on smoking on a gas grill, see Notes.)
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When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate.
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Place the ribs bone side down in the center of the grate over the drip pan and away from the heat.
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(If your grill has limited space, stand the racks of ribs upright in a rib rack; see Notes.)
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If cooking on a charcoal grill, toss half of the wood chips on each mound of coals.
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Cover the grill and cook the ribs for 45 minutes.
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Mop the ribs on both sides with the mop sauce.
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Re-cover the grill and continue cooking the ribs until well browned, cooked through, and tender enough to pull apart with your fingers, 45 minutes to 1 hour longer, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours in all.
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When the ribs are cooked, the meat will have shrunk back from the ends of the bones by about 1/4 inch.
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Mop the ribs again every 15 minutes and, if using a charcoal grill, replenish the coals as needed.
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Just before serving, brush the ribs on both sides with some of the Lemon Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce and move them directly over the fire.
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Grill the ribs until the barbecue sauce is browned and bubbling, 1 to 3 minutes per side.
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Transfer the ribs to a large platter or cutting board.
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Let the ribs rest for a few minutes, then cut the racks in half or into individual ribs.
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Sprinkle a little of the reserved rub over the ribs and serve at once with the remaining barbecue sauce on the side.
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Variation
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How to cook First-Timers Ribs in a smoker: Set up and light the smoker according to the manufacturers instructions and preheat it to low (225 to 250F).
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Place the ribs in the smoker bone side down and smoke until cooked through, 4 to 5 hours.
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Start mopping the ribs with the mop sauce after 1 hour, then mop the ribs again once every hour.
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Brush the ribs with the Lemon Brown Sugar Barbecue Sauce a half hour before they are done smoking.
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Youll need to replenish the wood chips or chunks after the first and second hour of smoking and to replenish the coals every hour.
