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Roasting the basic ingredients:.
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The broiler method: Lay the tomatoes on a baking sheet and place about 4 inches below a very hot broiler.
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Roast until blistered and blackened on one side, about 6 minutes; with a spoon or pair of tongs, flip the tomatoes and roast on the other side.
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The griddle method: Line a griddle or heavy skillet with aluminum foil and heat over medium.
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Lay the tomatoes on the foil and roast, turning several times, until blistered, blackened and softened, about 10 minutes.
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Don't worry if skin sticks to the foil.
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Cool, then peel the skins, collecting all the juices with the tomatoes.
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While the tomatoes are roasting, roast the chiles and unpeeled garlic directly on an ungreased griddle or heavy skillet (you already have one set up if you've griddle-roasted the tomatoes) over medium.
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Turn occasionally until both chiles and garlic are blackened in spots and soft, 5 to 10 minutes for the chiles, about 15 minutes for the garlic.
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Cool, pull the stems off the chiles and peel the papery skins from the garlic.
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Grinding the salsa:.
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The mortar method: In a large mortar, use the pestle to crush and grind the chiles, garlic and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt to a coarse-textured paste (this will release a wonderfully pungent aroma), paying special attention to breaking up the chile skins.
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A few at a time, grind in the roasted tomatoes, transferring the ground mixture to a bowl if the mortar gets unmanageably full.
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The food processor or blender method: In a food processor or blender, grind the chiles, garlic and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt to a coarse paste, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl a couple of times.
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Add the tomatoes and pulse a few times until you have a coarse-textured puree.
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Transfer the salsa to a serving bowl, and stir in any reserved tomato juices.
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Final seasoning.
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In a strainer, rinse the onion under running water, shake off the excess and stir into the salsa, along with the cilantro and optional vinegar.
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Add water, if necessary, to give the salsa a thickish, but easily spoonable, consistency (2 to 4 tablespoons is the norm).
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Taste and season with salt, usually a scant 1/4 teaspoon, and the salsa's ready to serve.
