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1
Prepare the cream fillings: Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water in a bowl and set aside to bloom.
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2
Place the milk in a pan.
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3
Halve the vanilla beans lengthwise; scrape out the seeds with a paring knife, then add the seeds and pods to the milk.
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4
Bring to a simmer, then cover and remove from the heat.
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5
Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a medium bowl until smooth.
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6
Remove the vanilla pods from the milk.
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7
Gradually whisk one-third of the warm milk into the egg mixture.
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8
Whisk the egg mixture into the remaining milk in the pan.
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9
Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture boils and thickens, 6 minutes.
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10
Continue boiling until the mixture is custard-like, 3 minutes.
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11
Remove the pan from the heat.
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12
Slice the butter into pieces and whisk into the custard, then stir in the gelatin mixture.
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13
Microwave the chocolate until melted, 2 to 3 minutes, stirring.
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14
Mix 2 tablespoons hot water with the espresso.
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15
Transfer half of the cream filling to a bowl, then stir in the chocolate and espresso.
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16
Transfer the remaining cream filling to another bowl.
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17
Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the chocolate and vanilla creams and refrigerate until cold and firm, at least 2 hours.
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18
When ready to fill the puffs, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks with a mixer.
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19
Fold half into the vanilla cream filling and half into the chocolate filling.
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20
Transfer each filling to a large pastry bag with a 1/4-inch tip and set aside.
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21
(To do this cleanly, cuff the open end of the pastry bag over your hand.)
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22
For the Pastry Puffs:
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23
Unfilled puffs can be frozen for up to a week.
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24
To re-crisp, thaw, then brush with a beaten egg; bake 5 minutes at 350 degrees.
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25
While the fillings chill, make the pastry puffs: Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
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26
Bring 1 1/2 cups water, the butter, sugar and salt to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring to melt the butter.
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27
Remove from the heat and stir in the flour with a wooden spoon to make a paste.
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28
Return to the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the paste is shiny and pulls away from the pan, 6 to 7 minutes.
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29
Cool slightly.
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30
Transfer the paste to a stand mixer and beat with the paddle attachment on medium-low speed to cool, 1 minute.
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31
Beat in the eggs one at a time.
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32
Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.
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33
Transfer the dough to a large pastry bag with a 1/2-inch tip.
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34
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper, dabbing a bit of dough under the corners to keep the paper in place.
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35
Pipe 1 1/2-inch balls of dough onto the paper (about 48 total).
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36
Smooth the dough peaks with a wet finger.
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37
Bake until puffed, 15 to 20 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and bake until golden, 15 minutes.
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38
Turn off the oven; keep the puffs inside 10 minutes to dry out.
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39
Pierce each puff with a dry piping tip; transfer to a rack to cool.
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40
To Assemble:
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41
Fill half of the puffs with chocolate cream and half with vanilla: Insert the tip of the pastry bag into the hole and squeeze until full.
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42
Chill the filled puffs 30 minutes before assembling the tower.
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43
Make the caramel: Mix the sugar, corn syrup and 1 cup water in a saucepan, cover and bring to a boil over high heat; don't stir.
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44
Uncover and boil, swirling the pan, until the syrup turns deep amber, 20 minutes.
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45
Immediately dip the bottom of the saucepan in a large bowl of ice water for a few seconds to stop the cooking.
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46
Transfer the caramel to a liquid measuring cup and cool slightly (it should still be liquid).
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47
Be careful-the caramel will still be hot!
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48
Draw a 7-inch circle on parchment paper.
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49
Partially dip each filled puff into the caramel and let the excess drip off.
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50
Arrange the puffs around the circle.
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51
If the caramel hardens, microwave until soft, 45 seconds.
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52
Fill the base circle with more puffs for stability, then continue building a conical tower of smaller circles.
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53
Top the tower with a single puff.
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54
Line your work surface with parchment paper-the next step can be messy.
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55
Dip the tip of a fork into the caramel and quickly wave it in circles around the tower to create a web of caramel strands.
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56
Repeat.
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57
Let set, then slide two spatulas under the paper and transfer the croquembouche to a platter.
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58
Tear off the excess paper around the base.
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59
To serve, crack the caramel web with the back of a knife, then dismantle the tower and transfer the cream puffs to plates.
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60
Photographs by Karl Juengel
