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1
Put crab shells, bay leaves, and crab-poaching liquid in a medium pot. Bring to a simmer, covered, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth has a gentle but distinctive crab flavor, about 1 hour. Strain broth through a fine-mesh strainer. If using crab-poaching liquid, return to pot and boil, uncovered, until reduced to 2 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.
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2
In another medium pot, heat oil over low heat. Add onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, covered, stirring often, until very soft and translucent but not browned, about 15 minutes.
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3
Add wine and tomato paste to vegetables and cook over medium heat, uncovered, until wine has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cups cream and the crab broth and simmer over low heat 15 minutes, uncovered, to meld flavors and thicken a bit.
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4
Put six small, shallow soup bowls in a 200u00b0 oven to warm. Whip remaining 2 tbsp. cream into soft peaks.
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5
Strain soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl and stir in butter and salt. Ladle about 2/3 cup into each soup bowl. Top with a mound of crab, if using, a small spoonful of whipped cream, and a sprinkle of herbs.
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6
*Call your fish shop a few days ahead for crab shells, as they're not always available.
