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To make the ketchup:
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Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and when it is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, until soft and golden, 7 to 10 minutes.
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Add the remaining ketchup ingredients, reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 35 minutes.
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Set aside to cool.
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If you want a chunky ketchup, cover and refrigerate.
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For smooth, transfer to a food processor fitted with a steel blade and process to the desired texture.
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Cover and refrigerate at least overnight and up to 3 weeks.
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(Yield: about 2 cups)
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To make the burgers:
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Place the beef on a work surface and divide into 4 balls of equal size.
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Form each into a patty about 3/4 to 1 inch thick by tossing it back and forth between your hands.
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To ensure more even cooking, make a 1/2-inch indentation with your thumb in the center of the burger.
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Handle the patties as little as possible; do not work more than necessary.
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Prepare a grill to medium-high.
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When the coals are glowing red, after 15 to 20 minutes, cover with the grate.
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After 5 minutes, use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the grate.
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Brush the grate with oil.
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When the coals are covered with pale gray ash and you can leave your hand 5 inches above the fire for 2 to 3 seconds, the coals are ready.
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Sprinkle both sides of the burgers with the salt and pepper.
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Place the burgers on the grate and grill until well seared on both sides, about 5 minutes for medium rare or 6 minutes for medium.
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Transfer to buns or a serving platter and serve immediately.
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Alternatively, place a cast iron skillet over high heat and when it is hot but not smoking add the burgers to the dry pan.
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Cook until well seared on both sides, 8 to 10 minutes for medium rare or 10 to 12 minutes for medium.