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1
In a dry 3-quart heavy saucepan cook 1/4 cup sugar, undisturbed, over moderate heat until it begins to melt and cook, stirring with a fork, until melted completely and deep golden brown.
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2
Remove pan from heat and dip pan briefly into a bowl of ice water to stop cooking.
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3
(Caramel will harden.)
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4
Cool pan about 5 minutes and return to heat.
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5
Add milk and cook over moderate heat, whisking, until caramel is melted.
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6
Whisk in cocoa until combined well and keep mixture warm.
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7
In a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water (or a double boiler), melt chocolate, stirring, and remove from heat.
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8
In a bowl with an electric mixer, beat egg yolks with remaining 3/4 cup sugar until thick and pale.
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9
Whisk in caramel mixture and chocolate in streams, whisking until combined.
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10
Pour custard into another 3-quart heavy saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until a candy thermometer registers 140 F. Cook custard, stirring (do not let it boil) 4 minutes more and remove pan from heat.
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11
Cool custard completely and freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturers instructions.
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12
Gelato will keep in the freezer for one week.
