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Preheat the oven to 200F.
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Line a rimmed baking sheet with a brown paper bag.
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Rinse the quail and pat dry with paper towels.
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Combine the buttermilk, egg, and hot sauce in a shallow bowl and whisk to mix.
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In a separate shallow bowl or plastic bag, combine the bread crumbs, flour, salt and black pepper to taste, and cayenne and stir or shake to mix.
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Pour canola oil 1/4 inch deep in a large skillet, add the bacon drippings, if using, and place over medium-high heat until sizzling hot (see Know-how, page 100).
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Dip each quail into the buttermilk mixture, then into the bread crumb mixture to evenly coat.
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Place in the skillet 3 or 4 at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the skillet.
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Cook for 4 to 5 minutes per side, until golden brown and crispy and the interior is slightly pink.
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If the quail are browning too quickly, reduce the heat slightly.
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Transfer the quail to the lined baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm.
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Repeat with the remaining quail, and pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the oil, reserving the pan drippings.
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Add the shallot to the same skillet and cook and stir over medium heat for about 1 minute.
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Sprinkle the flour over the shallot and cook and stir for 1 minute more, scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan.
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Whisk in the milk, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring, until the gravy is thick and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes.
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Spoon the gravy over the quail and serve warm.
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17
This chicken-fried quail is delicious with Summer Succotash (page 232), Spring Coleslaw with Fresh Herbs and Light Honey Citrus Vinaigrette (page 258), and Watercress Angel Biscuits (page 54).
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Or try them for breakfast over Country Ham and Hominy Hash (page 82) or with Buttermilk Waffles (page 91) in place of fried chicken.
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Southerners have long been crazy for quail, a small bird favored for eating andperhaps especiallyhunting.
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It was one of the few game species to flourish in the new landscape carved out by cotton farming, and the birds remain a favorite catch of hunters today.
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That was certainly true in my family, and Ive been eating quail for as long as I can remember.
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Whenever my dad and grandfather brought them home from a hunt, Granny Foster would dust them lightly with flour and fry them in a skillet for breakfast along with pan gravy and angel biscuits.
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Like many Southerners, my grandfather called quail bobwhites for their characteristic whistle, which sounds like they are singing bobwhite!
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bobwhite!
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bobwhite!
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The meat tastes sort of like chicken, but with a lovely, nutty-sweet twang, and quail can be prepared in all the ways youd prepare chickenbut with much shorter cooking times.
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Quail are so dainty that you will want to budget at least one, but more likely two, per person.
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28
Farmed quail can be bought from a number of online providers and usually come partially boned (see Sources, page 377).