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1
Using the food processor, mince the pancetta, onion, and garlic to a fine-textured pestata.
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2
Slice the celery stalks (and leaves) crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick chunksyou should have 6 cups of sliced celery or a bit more.
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3
If you have a piece of cheese rind, scrape off any mold and rinse it.
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4
Pour the olive oil into the soup pot, and set over medium-high heat.
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5
Scrape in the pestata, and cook, stirring, until it has dried and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.
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6
Pour in the crushed tomatoes and the water, and stir up the pestata.
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7
Drop in the cheese rind and the 2 tablespoons salt, cover the pot, and bring the soup base to a boil.
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8
Cook, covered, at a steady boil for 20 minutes or so, to develop flavor.
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9
Uncover the pot, and stir in all of the sliced celery.
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10
Bring the soup back to a boil, then adjust the heat to keep it at a bubbling simmer.
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11
Cook, cover off, for another hour or so, until the celery is very soft and the soup has reduced by about a quarter.
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12
Taste, and check that the broth has enough flavor and bodyif it is thin, cook longer to concentrate the taste.
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13
Adjust the seasoning, making sure theres enough saltiness to season the ditalini pasta.
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14
(You can finish and serve all or some of the soup now, or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze.)
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15
To complete the soup with pasta: Heat to the boil only the amount of soup youll be serving, measuring 1 1/2 to 2 cups per portion (eight or more servings from the whole batch).
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16
When it is bubbling, stir in 3/4 cup ditalini for every quart of soup.
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17
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente, 10 minutes or so.
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18
Turn off the heat, and immediately ladle the soup into warm bowls.
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19
Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of freshly grated cheese over each portion, and finish with a swirl of excellent olive oil.
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20
Serve right away, with more grated cheese at the table.
