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1
Thoroughly clean the catfish steaks, removing membranes and blood that the fishmonger may have overlooked.
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2
On a dinner plate or in a bowl, stir together the brown sugar, pepper, salt, caramel sauce, and fish sauce.
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3
Add the catfish and coat with the mixture, turning the steaks to make sure that all surfaces are evenly exposed to the seasonings.
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4
Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.
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5
Select a shallow saucepan in which the fish steaks will fit snugly in a single layer.
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6
If you are using the fatback, put it into the saucepan and cook over medium heat for about 12 minutes, or until it renders liquid fat and turns into golden cracklings; lower the heat slightly if the pan smokes too much.
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7
Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of the fat, keeping the cracklings in the pan, then return the pan to medium heat.
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8
(If you are using oil, heat it in the saucepan over medium heat.)
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9
Add the garlic and scallions and saute for about 30 seconds, or until fragrant.
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10
Add the catfish and all the seasonings from the plate to the pan.
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11
There may be some intense bubbling.
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12
Adjust the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes to develop the flavors, checking midway to make sure there is enough liquid in the pan.
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13
If the pan seems dry, splash in a little water.
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14
During this initial period, the fish will more or less cook in the steam trapped in the pan.
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15
Expect the liquid to bubble vigorously.
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16
Soft plumes of steam may shoot from under the lid.
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17
Uncover, add water almost to cover the fish, and bring to a gentle simmer.
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18
Cover and cook for 30 minutes.
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19
The fish will be at a hard simmer.
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20
Uncover and adjust the heat, if necessary, to continue at a gentle simmer.
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21
Cook for another 15 to 18 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half and has thickened slightly, forming a sauce.
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22
Taste the sauce and adjust the flavor with a pinch of brown sugar to remove any harsh edges, or a sprinkling of fish sauce for more savory depth.
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23
Carefully transfer the fish to a shallow bowl.
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24
Dont worry if the steaks break up a bit.
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25
Pour the sauce over the fish and serve.
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26
Vietnamese cooks of the past relied on clay pots for preparing everyday kho dishes and rice.
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27
They were inexpensive but also prone to cracking and breaking, instantly ruining the meal.
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28
When affordable aluminum pots became available in Vietnam in the mid-1940s, people embraced their modern convenience.
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29
Nowadays, clay pots are seldom used by Vietnamese cooks, but the term clay pot is sometimes used to describe kho dishes.
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30
In fact, the to in the catfish kho recipe name refers to a type of clay pot typically used for making the dish.
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31
Despite these changes in the Viet kitchen, you may simmer kho in a clay pot.
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32
There is no flavor advantage, but the vessels are charming and can go from stove to table.
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33
Most Asian markets and housewares shops stock two styles: the off-white, high-sided Chinese sand pot and the squat Japanese donabe, which are often richly glazed and usually have a wide bottom.
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34
A sand pot is inexpensive, but the higher-priced donabe, made in Japan and China and constructed of dense clay, heats up faster and is sturdier.
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35
The wide-bottomed donabe is ideal for kho dishes that call for the ingredients to be arranged in a single layer.
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36
Common clay pot sizes include extra small (1 quart), small (1 1/2 quart), medium (2 1/2 to 3 quart), and large (4 to 5 quart).
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37
Clay pots are designed for cooking food in liquid.
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38
Any sauteing or searing steps must be done in a regular pan.
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39
Some cooks season their clay pots before using them, but I dont.
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40
They can be set directly on the burner of a gas stove, but require a heat diff user on an electric stove.
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41
Always have a clay pot at room temperature, never chilled, before you put it on the burner; heat it gradually to prevent cracking; and never raise the heat above medium.
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42
Once the contents are at a simmer, make sure any liquid you add is at least warm.
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43
To maintain the life of a clay pot, avoid using sharp utensils and clean it with mild detergent, hot water, and gentle wiping.
