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1
Put the olive oil in a large deep skillet or flameproof casserole with a lid and place over high heat.
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2
A minute later, add the garlic and chiles.
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3
When they sizzle, add the ribs, meatiest side down; sprinkle with salt and pepper and add the bay leaves.
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4
Cook, more or less undisturbed, adjusting the heat so the meat browns nicely, for 5 to 10 minutes.
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5
Turn the ribs and brown again.
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6
Transfer the ribs to a plate.
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7
Pour off any excess fat and add the cabbage and some more salt and pepper.
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8
Cook, stirring occasionally, until it browns a bit, then add the wine and stir to release any brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.
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9
Return the ribs to the pot; adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily but not violently, then cover.
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10
Cook, checking occasionally to make sure the mixture does not dry out (if it does, add a little more white wine or water).
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11
When the ribs are tender and the cabbage is very softthis will take at least 45 minutes and possibly up to an houruncover the skillet.
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12
If the mixture is soupy, turn the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally and carefully, until it is more of a moist stew.
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13
Garnish and serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before reheating.
